DU 

l*Z3 




8 



2L5 



X-J V«/ VJT . JT\itTt;«r^. 1 J 

OF THE 





Class ^iLklA. 
Book Dl ^O 



Copyright^ . 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 




Olokele Canyon, Island of Kauai. 

(2) 



GEOGRAPHY 



OF THE 



HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



BY 



CHARLES W. BALDWIN 




NEW YORK •:• CINCINNATI •:• CHICAGO 

AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY 









LIBRARY of OdNGRESs! 
two Copies Kecewed 

SEP 2 *^8 

ii, no? 

7_ | | e- ^ o 

COPY ft.' 

... « ..■ .1 - I i w m m i n »|M» 



Copyright, 1908, by 
CHARLES W. BALDWIN. 

Entered at Stationers' Hall, London. 



GEOG. H. I. 
W. P. I 



PREFACE 

This text on the Geography of the Hawaiian Group may be 
styled the first book of its kind that has been published, as the 
old Barnes' edition was hardly a geography in the true sense 
of the word. Thus it is that, lacking any previous criterion, 
the author has had to rely on teaching experience in determin- 
ing the general nature and scope of the work. 

The maps have been specially prepared for this Geography, 
and are the only up-to-date maps of the Hawaiian Group. The 
relief maps are the work of Mr. W. T. Pope of our Agricultural 
College ; they have been prepared under expert supervision, 
and portray physical features not shown heretofore on any map. 

In view of the fact that there has been a lack of accurate 
data on the Hawaiian Group, it has seemed necessary to con- 
form the text to the interests of the teacher as well as to the 
requirements . of the pupil. The book is designed primarily 
as a source of information whereby the subject may be pre- 
sented topically. With this end in view the Appendix includes 
a number of references. However, the book may well be placed 
in the hands of pupils above the fourth grade. In the earlier 
grades it is expected that the teacher will adapt the subject- 
matter to the class to conform to the Course of Study. 

In the preparation of this book on Hawaiian Geography, the 
author is much indebted to Mr. Edgar Wood of the Honolulu 
Normal School, who has furnished valuable data. 

CHARLES W. BALDWIN. 

Honolulu. 



CONTENTS 



Introduction 
Oahu . 
Hawaii 
Maui . 
Molokai 
Lanai . 
Kahoolawe 
Kauai . 

NlIHAU 

Appendices: 

A. Capes, Bays, Mountains, Places, and Plantations 

B. Distances from Honolulu . 

C. Width of Channels . 

D. Area and Population 

E. References to Hawaiian Geography 

F. Pronunciation of Hawaiian Words 



PAGE 

7 

34 

5 1 

87 

105 

109 

109 

no 

121 

123 
126 
126 
127 
127 
128 



MAPS 



Hawaiian Islands 
Pacific Ocean 
Oahu . 
Hawaii 
Maui . 
Molokai 
Kauai . 



8 
. 26 
3 2 >36 

5o,54 

88, 92 

. 106 

no, III 



GEOGRAPHY OF THE HAWAIIAN 

ISLANDS 

INTRODUCTION 

The Hawaiian Islands are a part of an archipelago in the 
North Pacific, extending from the island of Hawaii on the 
extreme southeast to Ocean Island on the northwest — a dis- 
tance of about 2000 miles. With the exception of Necker 
Island, the islands northwest of the main group are coral atolls, 
many of them barely rising above the surface of the sea, being 
hardly more than reefs or sand banks. The largest of these 
islands is Midway Island, which is a low coral atoll nearly 18 
miles in circumference, inclosing several small islands ; it is 
prominent as the landing for the Pacific cable. These islands 
are probably the topmost peaks of a range of mountains ex- 
tending northwest and southeast ; they have been named as fol- 
lows : Necker Island, French Frigate Shoals, Gardner Island, 
Dowsett's Reef, Maro Reef, Laysan Island, Lisianski Island, 
Pearl and Hermes Reef, Midway Island, Ocean Island. 

The Hawaiian Islands proper consist of a group of twelve 
islands lying between latitude i8° 55' and 23 north, and longi- 
tude 1 54 40' and 162 west. They are about 2100 miles from 
San Francisco, and 4700 from Manila. Eight of these islands 
— Hawaii, 1 Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau, and 
Kahoolawe — are inhabited, the remainder — Molokini, Lehua, 
Kaula, and Nihoa (Bird Island) — being but barren rocks. The 
eight inhabited islands are named above in the order of their 
size. 

1 For pronunciation of Hawaiian names, see Appendix F. 

7 




KAULA 



21 



20, 
30 



20 



19 
30' 



19 



P 



A 



O 



160 



159°30 / 



c 



I 



c 



E 



159° 



Barber's Pt. 



F 



A 



i58°3o' 



I 



N 






c 



138 



8 



10 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 

The Hawaiian group, which formed along a fissure in the 
earth's crust, extending northwest and southeast, consists of cra- 
ters built up from the bottom of the ocean by outpoured lava. 1 

The volcanic fires ceased first on Kauai, and so, as it became 
greatly eroded and acquired more forms of plant life, it has been 
called the oldest island of the group ; this does not mean, how- 
ever, that it appeared above the surface of the ocean first, or 
even before Hawaii, the youngest island, which, with its two 
active volcanoes, is still in the making process, though it has 
already been built up 8575 feet higher than Kauai. 

The surface features of the group are characterized by lofty 
mountains with gentle slopes, which are cut up by many gorges 
of great depth. The valleys of West Maui and Kauai are among 
the grandest in the world. The windward or northeast sides 
terminate in cliffs, which, on Hawaii and Molokai, are several 
thousand feet high in places. The upper slopes of the moun- 
tains are covered with a dense tropical growth of great beauty, 
which extends nearly to the sea on the windward side. 

Situated as they are at the crossroads of the steamer routes 
across the Pacific, the Hawaiian Islands occupy a position of 
great commercial and strategic importance — and thus well 
merit the epithet which is applied to them, "The Key of 
the Pacific. ,, 

Rock. — With the exception of some uplifted coral reefs, and 
a little sandstone and sedimentary rock, all the rock of the 
group is volcanic, consisting of basaltic lavas. 

This volcanic rock may be divided into two general classes : 
(1) completely fused lava (pahoehoe and aa), and (2) that which 
has been ejected in particles of various sizes and shapes (tufa); 
in many cases this latter was in a partly fused mass, or con- 
tained cementing material which bound it into loose, friable 
rock. 

Pahoehoe and aa are similar in composition and may be parts 
of the same flow. Aa presents a rough, jagged appearance, 

1 " Hawaiian Islands, How Formed," C. W. Baldwin, HawaWs Young People, 
February, 1898 (1899 on outside cover). 



ROCK 



II 



while pahoehoe is smooth 
lava. Pahoehoe is the natu- 
ral form for lava to take in 
cooling, and just why lava 
should take the aa shape is a 
little difficult for us to state. 1 
The first part of a lava flow 
is usually aa, the latter flow 
being pahoehoe. As pahoe- 
hoe presents a smooth, roll- 
ing surface, animals can find 
a path upon it without diffi- 
culty, but not so with aa, 
which presents an impassable 
barrier. 

The sandstone, which is sea sand cemented by the lime of 
which it is partly composed, does not make a very durable stone, 
though it has been used as a building stone in some places. 




Pahoehoe. 




Aa. 

The blue lava rock, of which some of the finest buildings in 
Honolulu are constructed, is a solid, compact pahoehoe. 

1 " Lava Flows of Hawaii " (pahoehoe and aa), C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young 
People, January, 1902. 



12 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 

Soil. — With the exception of a small percentage of vegetable 
mold, all the soil of the group is formed from the disintegra- 
tion or weathering of lava rock. This soil may be divided into 
three classes : (i) lava soil; (2) tufa soil; and (3) sedimentary 
soil. 

Dark red soils are formed by the weathering of normal lavas 
(aa and pahoehoe) in a warm atmosphere with a small amount 
of rainfall ; as in the regions about Makaweli on Kauai and 
Paia on Maui, and the uplands of Waialua on Oahu. These 
dark red soils are always good soils. 

We should naturally expect to find nearly all the soil of the 
group dark red, and this would undoubtedly be true, were it not 
for the fact that (1) a great deal of the original material has been 
covered up under the debris of the tufa cones which are so 
numerous in some localities, and that (2) normal lavas form 
yellow or grayish yellow soils when the weathering takes place 
where there is a heavy rainfall. 

While tufa has a common source with the other lava rock of 
the group, yet it differs radically, owing to changes which took 
place through the action of steam and gases at the time it w r as 
ejected. Tufa weathers as light red and yellow soil. Regions 
covered by tufa soil are the districts of Honolulu, Lihue, and 
Hilo. These light red and yellow soils are not so good as the 
dark red soils. 

In localities subject to a heavy rainfall the grayish yellow soil, 
formed from normal lavas, is likely to have lost some of its 
ingredients, which have been dissolved in water and carried 
away ; this usually forms a subsoil covered by vegetable mold, 
which is sometimes several feet in thickness, as in Olaa. Where 
the forests have been cleared away, this subsoil is often exposed 
by the washing away of the surface layer ; which accounts for 
the poor soil in some of the places on the windward side of the 
group; as Hanalei on Kauai, Huelo on Maui, and Kaneohe 
on Oahu. 

Sedimentary soils are found in the valley bottoms and along 
the lowlands of the coastal plain. As the sedimentary soils 



CLIMATE 



13 



generally contain vegetable mold, they are generally of a brown 
color. They form the best soils of the group. Lahaina on 
Maui, the Ewa plantation on Oahu, and Kekaha on Kauai are 
typical sedimentary soil regions. 

The action of heat on our soil is to turn it red ; hence much of 
the soil of the group has been burned red by overflows of lava. 1 

Climate. — Owing to the trade winds which blow continuously 
for nine months in the year, and the currents which cool the 




Summit of Mauna Kea in Midsummer. 



ocean about the islands, the temperature of the group is io° 
lower than that of any other part of the world in the same 
latitude. 2 At sea level the temperature ranges from 6o° to 85 , 
with an average of about 75 . At an elevation of 1200 feet the 
temperature is 70 . 

The islands are exempt from cyclones or hurricanes, and 
thunderstorms are rare. During the months of December, 
January, February, and March the southwest wind blows during 

1 " Lavas and Soils of the Hawaiian Islands," Walter Maxwell. 

2 " Cold Current System of the Pacific," Dr. Bishop, Hawaiian Annual, 1905, 
page 74. 



14 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



the cessation of the trades. It is the storm wind known as 
Kona. 

As a rule there is a sharp contrast between the northeast or 
windward side, and the lee or southwest side of the various 
islands ; the former being excessively rainy and the latter ex- 
tremely arid. 

Owing to the height of the islands above sea level a great 
variety of climate may be found, ranging from torrid heat at 
sea level on the lee side of the group to a freezing temperature 
on the snow-capped summits of the highest mountains. 




At the Sea Beach in Kona. 



On the whole, the climate, which is a remarkably equable one, 
is as nearly perfect as can be found anywhere in the world. An 
ideal climate, coupled with its tropical growth, has given the 
group the sobriquet, " Paradise of the Pacific." 

Vegetation. — The upper mountain slopes of the group are 
covered with a heavy forest growth, which reaches nearly to the 
seashore on the windward side. At one time these forests ex- 
tended much lower than at present, but they have been destroyed 



VEGETATION 



15 



to a great extent by cattle and fires, or have given way to 
cane fields. 

The flora of the Hawaiian Islands may be divided into three 
groups: (1) indigenous plants, which mainly comprise the upper 
forest growth; (2) those that were brought from the islands 
farther south by the early inhabitants; and (3) those that were 



•# v'%'- ' 


' " : -If 


: .:'■;:■;■ :4 ;v ; «%. 


: 




:.- • '.■ ■■■ • ' . : 








• 




I 


^m 


' [ ' ■:: • 


i*& 




;, 




•• 


. ,.„ -J.W^:. 


' ; pR*-* • i 


. -■ ■.' 


■ ;? 






ft£j 


;/*"' ' |' 


! 




■■■;.... :■;:,■ 




iflftjil!^ 


,.;;.-, r 










* *% ■ ■> 


-" ,% 




if* 








- ■'-,'.".. 


* :5 *li* /:: 


// ; 


^4 - 






' 




■': j/ \ \*9* 










; ' . ' - 






HB'' 





Forest in Hawaii. 



introduced after the islands were visited by Captain Cook in 
1779. 

Among the trees of the ancient forest there are a number of 
ornamental and timber woods, as koa, kauila, mamane, and ohia. 
From the koa, with infinite toil, the Hawaiians hollowed out their 
canoes, using the light wiliwili, or hau wood, for the outrigger. 
The heavy, hard wood of the kauila furnished spear and 00 
handles and kapa beaters. From the fiber of the olona shrub, 
cord was made for fish lines and nets. 

The only woods from the original forest trees that are of any 
commercial value now are the koa (Hawaiian mahogany), which 



i6 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



is used in the finest cabinet work, and ohia, large quantities of 
which are exported for railroad ties. A great many young 
sandalwood trees have sprung up in the forests, but not in 
sufficient quantities to warrant a revival of the trade which 
nearly resulted in their extermination. 

The plants introduced by the ancient Hawaiians form a very 
interesting group, as they not only determined the future agri- 




Kukui and Hala on Waipio Cliff. 



cultural pursuits of the group, but indicate the purpose and 
direction of the early voyages. Among these plants are the 
breadfruit, cocoanut, banana, taro, sugar cane, ohia (so-called 
mountain apple), mulberry, hala, hau, kukui, milo, and kamani, 
which yielded food and material for cloth, rope, mats, and other 
domestic articles. 

The lower forests are composed of kukui (candle-nut tree), 
hau, and hala ; the leaves of this last-named tree furnish the 
material from which the mats and hats are woven that are so 
common about the islands. On the lowlands adjoining the 



ANIMALS 



17 




Hookena Beach. Hawaii. 



beach or in the sand of the beach itself, groves of cocoanut 
grow. 

When the islands were discovered there were but few fruits 
and vegetables to be found. Of the fruits introduced many are 
now to be found growing wild, as the guava, orange, lime, 
mango, Cape gooseberry (poha), and others. 1 

Territorial and Federal agricultural and forestry bureaus have 
been established, with stations in Honolulu, under whose direc- 
tion forest reserves have been constituted, and which are actively 
engaged in reforesting tracts of public and private domain. 
This reforesting is being done with several varieties of eucalyp- 
tus, algaroba, silver-oak, black wattle, monkey-pod, and iron- 
wood. Of these the eucalyptus grows well on the windward 
slopes and the algaroba on the low, dry spots near the seashore 
on the lee side of the group ; the latter tree is not only a valu- 
able firewood, but also furnishes in its seed pods fodder for 
cattle and horses. 

Animals. — At the time of Captain Cook's visit in 1779, hogs, 
dogs, mice, domestic fowls, lizards, and a few harmless insects 

1 " Agricultural Resources and Capabilities of Hawaii," William C. Stubbs, Ph.D., 
page 27. 



1 8 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 

were found, but by far the greater proportion of animals were 
birds, of which there were about seventy varieties — comprising 
a number of small forest birds, waterfowl, beach and sea birds. 

In 1793 Vancouver landed cattle, sheep, and goats; and horses 
were brought later. Some of these animals are now found in a 
half-wild state on parts of the group. 

During the months from November to March flocks of ducks, 
plover, and curlew migrate to these shores from the northwest 
coast of America. 

Owing to the recession of the forests to the higher mountain 
slopes, the forest birds are fast disappearing. The mamo, from 
which the finest feathers were procured for the famous feather 
cloaks of the chiefs, has long been extinct. 

Through the indiscriminate introduction of plants from other 
countries, a number of injurious blights and insects have been 
brought into the Territory. These have multiplied in great num- 
bers, threatening to destroy many forms of plant life, including 
some of the staple products of the islands. However, natural 
insect enemies of these pests were searched out and distributed 
about the group, and so they have been kept in check. The most 
destructive of these pests are the cottony cushion scale, the leaf- 
hopper, the Japanese beetle, the army worm, and the cane-borer. 

To replace the disappearing, insect-eating forest birds, a num- 
ber of birds have been introduced, such as the mynahs, turtle- 
doves, larks, rice birds, sparrows, and quail. 

On the leaves of forest trees and shrubs or in the shrubbery 
on the ground are found 341 species of land shells (achatinella). 
These achatinella are peculiar to the Hawaiian group, and excel 
in beauty of form and color the land shells of any other part of 
the world. The largest number are found on the island of Oahu. 1 

Industries. — The sugar output includes 96 per cent of the 
value of the industries of the group, which are almost entirely 
agricultural. There are now about fifty plantations on the 
islands, which in 1907 had an output of 41 1,007 tons of sugar. 

1 " Land Shells of the Hawaiian Islands," D. D. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young 
People, May, 1900. 



INDUSTRIES 



19 




Steam Plows at Work. 




Cutting Cane. 



20 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 





l^ ' 
















gSii-. Jl ^S 






P "' 


' />■■■■■ " 










t> 




i is t^^.-'-^f 


!^)>kl?ar»gv..r;^ 




¥ r2 




•i^^****^^ 




IIS; 



Loading Cane Cars. 




Unloading Cane on Carrier. 



INDUSTRIES 



21 




Cane-Crushing Machinery. 




Mill Interior — Bagging Sugar. 
geog. h. i. — 2 



22 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 

Hawaii is, no doubt, the most advanced sugar-producing coun- 
try of the world. While this is due in part to the introduction 
of improved methods of harvesting and milling, the result has 
been chiefly brought about by the efforts of the Planter's Ex- 
perimental Station in devising the best methods of fertilizing 
and cultivating sugar cane. 

This experimental station, which is located in Honolulu, is one 
of the most efficiently equipped and organized experimental sta- 
tions in the world. It is maintained at a yearly cost of $60,000. 

Most of the plantations have complete systems of railway 
tracks which connect the mills with the fields and landings. 
Where water is plentiful, as on the windward side of Hawaii, 
the cane is flumed to the mill. When the mountain slope is 
abrupt, gravity roads and overhead trolley cables are used. 

Water has been conveyed through miles of irrigation aque- 
ducts to dry sections, so that nearly all of the arable land of the 
group is now under cultivation. These ditches, traversing, as 
they do, the most inaccessible regions of the group, represent 
great feats of engineering. The water is carried over the 
gulches through huge siphon pipes, and along inaccessible 
precipices in a series of tunnels within the rock face of the 
cliff. The big ditches have a daily capacity of from 30,000 
to 80,000 gallons of water. 

In places wells have been sunk and water forced by powerful 
pumps through long lines of pipe to higher levels. In other 
sections water has been sought by tunneling into the moun- 
tains. 

With the exception of the cane raised on the windward side of 
the island of Hawaii, all of the sugar cane of the group is grown 
by irrigation; the northeast side of Hawaii has sufficient rain- 
fall to raise cane without irrigation. 1 

Rice comes next to sugar in the area of production and value. 
It is grown in the valleys and on the flat lands near the sea. 
This industry is almost entirely in the hands of Chinamen, who 

1 " Sugar : Its Status and Development," L. A. Thurston, Jubilee Number Ad- 
vertiser, page 31, July 2, 1906. 



INDUSTRIES 



2- 




Preparing Rice Field. 







Coffee Orchard. 



24 



THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 




Pineapple Field. 




Pineapple Cannery. 



COMMERCE 25 

employ the most primitive methods in cultivating and harvest- 
ing their crops. 1 

Coffee grows well in sheltered parts of the group, and yields 
a berry equal to the best Java or Mocha ; this is known as Kona 
coffee. Owing to the low market price, many of the coffee 
orchards have been abandoned. Coffee is chiefly raised on the 
island of Hawaii. 

Pineapples are planted in various parts of the group, where 
factories have been established for canning the fruit. The 
Hawaiian canned pineapple is of a very high grade. 

Rubber producing is an important industry in sections. Sisal, 
tobacco, vanilla, bananas, oranges, limes, are also grown, and 
bee culture is carried on in places. 

The lands of the group not used for agricultural purposes are 
occupied by cattle and sheep ranches. 

The ocean about the group abounds in fish. In artificial 
ponds along the shore mullet are raised. 

Commerce. — Three of the great trans-Pacific steamship routes 
touch at Honolulu — from San Francisco to Yokohama and 
Hongkong, from Vancouver to Auckland and Sydney, and 
from San Francisco to Auckland and Sydney. Besides the 
foregoing, there are independent lines running from Honolulu 
to Hilo and Kahului, and from Honolulu to San Francisco and 
the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. 

Also there is a large fleet of freighters which brings bread- 
stuffs, grain, oil, machinery, and manufactured articles from the 
Pacific and Atlantic ports, lumber from Puget Sound, and coal 
from Newcastle, New South Wales. 

The cable of the Commercial Pacific Cable Company lands at 
Waikiki, where it is connected by overland wire with Honolulu. 
The larger islands of the group are connected by wireless 
telegraph. 

History. — The Hawaiiansare Polynesians, who came from the 
southeastern Asian archipelago, gradually spreading throughout 
the islands of the South Pacific and finally reaching Samoa. The 

1 "Agricultural Resources and Capabilities of Hawaii," Wm. C. Stubbs, page 44. 




R.D.SERVOSS, 



120 Longitude 140 East from 160 Greenwich 180 Longitude 100 "West fn 



26 




) Greenwich 120 



27 



28 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 

first migrations to Hawaii were probably about the sixth century, 
from the Society Islands. These early people were bold, skillful 
seamen, sailing by the stars. They built large double canoes 
capable of carrying provisions for a long voyage. Voyages 
were frequently made between Hawaii and Samoa, and between 
Hawaii and Tahiti, whence the population was increased and 
new plants and animals introduced. 

After a time communication with the south ceased, and then 
for several centuries the group was cut off from the rest of 
the world. 

In 1555 the Spanish visited the group, but kept their discovery 
secret. In 1778 Captain Cook found the islands, and their ex- 
istence was then made known to the world. He named them 
Sandwich Islands for his patron, the Earl of Sandwich. Cook 
first landed at Waimea on Kauai ; on a later visit he was killed 
in a quarrel with the natives at Kaawaloa in Kealakekua Bay on 
Hawaii. 

In 1795 Kamehameha, king of Hawaii, united the Windward 
Islands under one head by the conquest of Oahu; and in 1810 
Kauai was formally ceded to him by Kaumualii. Thus the 
group, which had previously been ruled over by a number of 
independent petty chiefs, was finally united under one head. 

The Kamehameha dynasty continued as rulers until 1874, 
when by popular election Kalakaua came to the throne. 

In 18 1 9 idolatry was abolished. The following year, 1820, 
the American missionaries arrived. They immediately reduced 
the language to writing, organized the present school system, and 
were actively instrumental in creating a constitution and estab- 
lishing laws. 

In 1876 a reciprocity treaty was concluded with the United 
States, by which, for the cession of Pearl Harbor, sugar was 
admitted free of duty to the United States. This immediately 
gave a tremendous impetus to the sugar industry, and caused the 
country to prosper to a greater degree than ever before ; and 
was the chief factor in making possible the annexation of the 
Hawaiian Islands later. 



POPULATION 29 

Upon King Kalakaua's death, Queen Liliuokalani came to the 
throne in 1891. About two years after her accession to the 
throne, she attempted to force a new constitution on the people, 
restoring the old powers of royalty. This resulted in an upris- 
ing : the queen was deposed and a provisional government estab- 
lished. Upon the failure to secure annexation to the United 
States through the opposition of President Cleveland, the Re- 
public of Hawaii was organized July 4, 1894, with Sanford B. 
Dole as President. On the 12th of August, 1898, annexation 
to the United States was finally accomplished and in 1900 the 
islands were organized as the Territory of Hawaii. 

Population. — In 1900 the population of the group numbered 
154,000. It was estimated at 157,300 in 1907. When the 
islands were discovered, the population was probably about 
250,000; in 1878, it had fallen away to 57,985. The years 
following this show a very rapid increase in population, brought 
about by the importation of laborers to meet the growing needs 
of the planters, due to the impetus given to the sugar industry 
by the reciprocity treaty. These laborers were brought in un- 
der the contract system, and were chiefly Chinese, Japanese, 
and Portuguese. 

Of the present population 58 per cent are Orientals; 22 per 
cent Hawaiians and those of Hawaiian extraction ; and the 
remaining 20 per cent are evenly divided between Americans, 
Portuguese, and other Europeans. 

Government. 1 — The legislative department consists of a sen- 
ate and a house of representatives. Senators are elected for 
four years and representatives for two years. The sessions of 
the legislature are biennial. 

The executive branch of the government includes a governor, 
secretary, superintendent of public works, commissioner of pub- 
lic lands, auditor, treasurer, attorney-general, high sheriff, tax 
assessor, surveyor, and superintendent of public instruction. 
Of the foregoing the governor and secretary are appointed by 

1 " Synopsis of the Government of the Territory of Hawaii," Hawaii 's Young 
People, October, 1907. 



30 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 

the President, with the approval of the Senate of the United 
States. The other officials are appointed by the governor, with 
the approval of the Territorial senate. 

The judicial department comprises a supreme court, and cir- 
cuit and district courts. The judges of the supreme and circuit 
courts receive their appointments from the President, with the 
approval of the Senate of the United States, while the district 
justices are appointed by the governor. 

Besides the above, the Federal Government of the United 
States maintains a circuit judge, a district attorney, a marshal, 
and a collector of customs and internal revenue. 

The Territory elects a delegate to the Congress of the United 
States, who has a seat in the House of Representatives, but 
no vote. 

The Territory is divided into five counties: Hawaii, Maui, 
Oahu, Kauai, and Kalawao. Maui includes Lanai, Kahoolawe, 
and Molokai, except Kalawao County, while Kauai includes 
Niihau. 

Education. — Education is compulsory, free, and universal. 
The Department of Public Instruction consists of a superin- 
tendent and six commissioners, who have control of all educa- 
. tional affairs, public and private, throughout the group. The 
department is represented in each of the outer districts by a 
school agent. Three normal inspectors are appointed by the 
superintendent and commissioners, and are required to report 
regularly concerning the circuits to which they are assigned. 

There is a thoroughly equipped normal school in Honolulu, 
which includes a training school with a full corps of critic 
teachers. High schools are maintained at Honolulu and Hilo, 
and industrial schools for boys at Lahainaluna on Maui, and at 
Waialee, near Kahuku on Oahu. 

A College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts, established by 
the Territory at Honolulu in 1908, is maintained jointly by the 
Territory and the Federal Government. 

Besides the public schools there are a number of excellent 
clenominational schools ; as Oahu College, the Kamehameha 



EDUCATION 31 

Schools, St. Louis College, Hilo Boarding School, and (for girls) 
Kawaiahao Seminary, Maunaolu Seminary on Maui, and the 
Kohala Girls' School. 

Oahu College, which is situated at Punahou in the suburbs of 
Honolulu, is the most thoroughly equipped school in the Terri- 
tory. The curriculum of this school includes elementary grades 
as well as a year of university studies. 

The Kamehameha Schools, which were handsomely endowed 
by the late Bernice Pauahi Bishop, include boys' and girls' 
schools, which are fully equipped for manual work. 



I 58 O 



21 40 



21 30 



2! 20 




I 58 10 



158 



32 



OAHU 

Physical Features. — The island of Oahu lies midway between 
Kauai and Maui. It contains 598 square miles and is the 
third in size of the Hawaiian Islands — only Hawaii and Maui 
being larger. 

In general outline this island resembles a four-sided figure, 
the northeast and southwest sides being parallel. The points of 
the figure are Kahuku on the northeast, Kaena on the northwest, 
Barber's Point on the southwest, and Makapuu on the southeast. 




Copyright, 1904, by Rice and Perkins. 

Honolulu Harbor. 

The shore line of Oahu is much more irregular than that of 
the other islands of the group. It is this feature which gives 
the island its prominence as the most important one in the 
group ; for excellent harbors have been thus afforded. On the 
south there is the bay on which is situated Honolulu, the capital 
and chief commercial city of the Territory; and Pearl' Lochs, 
the proposed site for the new naval docks. 

On the windward side of the island there are the deep inlet at 
the mouth of the Kahana Valley, and Kaneohe Bay ; this latter 
is inclosed on one side by Mokapu Point and on the other by 
the Kualoa headland. The so-called Waialua Bay on the north- 
west is hardly more than an open roadstead. 

More coral is found about Oahu than about the other islands. 

34 



PHYSICAL FEATURES 35 

Along the windward and lee shores of the island there are ex- 
tensive growing coral reefs, and a large portion of the narrow 
coastal plain which surrounds the island, with the exception of 
the Kaena Point and Makapuu Point regions, is composed of 
uplifted coral reefs. Honolulu is built on one of these uplifted 
reefs. 

At one time the island of Oahu was deeply submerged (800 
or 700 feet) and then uplifted (150 or 300 feet). The coral reefs 
were built while the island was depressed, the subsequent eleva- 
tion bringing them to the surface. 

The fact that the island of Oahu has been depressed helps 
us to explain some of its features ; thus Kaneohe Bay is a sunken 
region ; the deep Kahana inlet was the mouth of the valley at 
one time ; Pearl Lochs may be submerged valleys, though un- 
doubtedly the immense amount of fresh water which escapes 
beneath the surface in this region helped keep the passageways 
open by preventing the building of the coral, and so played an 
important part in the formation of the Lochs. 

Honolulu Harbor was formed by the coral reef which extended 
across the entrance, an opening being left in the reef for the 
escape of the fresh water of the Nuuanu and adjoining streams ; 
this channel has been deepened by dredging, and now forms the 
passageway at the entrance of the harbor. The coral has also 
built across the entrance to Kaneohe Bay ; through the reef 
there are two narrow but deep openings which vessels can enter. 
The interior of the bay is filled with coral, and is navigable only 
for small-sized craft. 

There are a number of small islands across the entrance to 
Kaneohe Bay, some of them just visible ; these islands are un- 
doubtedly parts of eroded ridges which were depressed, leaving 
but the summits exposed above water. Mokolii near Kualoa 
Point is the largest of these islands. The islands off Waimanalo 
are of a similar formation. 

Pearl Lochs. — Pearl Harbor consists of two bodies of water, 
known as East and West Lochs, which are separated by a long, 
low peninsula. The East Loch is the larger of these two divi- 



OAHU 




COPYRIGHT J907 BY W.T.PCPE 



36 




J 



37 



38 OAHU 

sions, including the greater part of the harbor. A long, narrow 
passageway connects with the sea, almost landlocking the har- 
bor. The bar at the entrance of this passageway has been 
dredged to float the largest of battle ships. 

The Pearl Lochs require only a little dredging to make them 
one of the finest and safest harbors in the Pacific. 

Mountains. — The island of Oahu consists of two parallel 
ranges of mountains : the Koolau range extending along the 
eastern side, and the Waianae range along the southwestern 
side. At one time these two ranges constituted what were sepa- 
rate islands, the space between them having been filled by lava 
flows from the Koolau range, and finally by wash from both 
ranges. 

Both of these ranges have been denuded by cattle of forest 
trees, except on the higher slopes. However, the upper slopes 
have now been made forest reserves and are being reforested. 

Waianae Range. — The Waianae range is much older than the 
other ; it is probably as old as Waialeale of Kauai. The high- 
est point of Oahu is in this range — Kaala, 4030 feet above sea 
level. 

Originally this range was much higher than it is at present, 
and probably consisted of a single dome which had very much 
the exterior appearance of Haleakala; but it has been washed 
down and cut up by erosion until now only the skeleton of the 
former mountain remains. 

The range is broken midway by the Waianae gap, through 
which a trail passes to the site of the Waianae Plantation. At 
Waianae the ridges separating the gulches have been almost 
entirely worn away by erosion, leaving a part standing near the 
sea as an isolated peak. " The Sphinx of the Pacific " from 
which Hitchcock made his noted painting is such a peak. 
Back of Waianae are cliffs similar to those found on the wind- 
ward side of the Koolau range. 

At first sight it would appear that while the erosion on the 
southwest slopes of this range has been very extensive, compara- 
tively little has taken place on the northeast ; but later obser- 



MOUNTAINS 39 

vation will show that there has been fully as much on this side, 
but that the valleys and ridges so formed have been buried out 
of sight beneath the lava flows from the Koolau range, and 
later by wash from that range. 

The Koolau Range. — The Koolau Mountains of Oahu are the 
longest of our island ranges, extending from Makapuu Point to 
Kahuku, a distance of 37 miles. The southern end of the range 
terminates abruptly in Makapuu Point, the base of which is 
washed by the sea, but the northern end spreads out in several 
ridges that terminate in cliffs overlooking the lowlands be- 
tween Kahuku and Waimea Valley. Konahuanui, 3105 feet 
high, and Lanihuli, 2775 feet high, are the highest peaks of this 
range. 

The range is broken by three gaps of erosion, at the head of 
the Nuuanu, Kalihi, and Kaukonahua 1 gulches. At the Nuuanu 
gap (the Pali), a fine macadamized road has been built, connect- 
ing Honolulu with the Koolau side of the island. The trails in 
the Kalihi and Kaukonahua gaps are seldom used now, though 
in ancient times they were frequently traveled by the natives in 
passing from one side of the island to the other. 

As the Koolau range is stretched directly across the course of 
the trade wind, there has been a very heavy rainfall on the 
windward side of the island, and consequently great erosion. 
So great has the erosion been that the ridges dividing the 
different valleys are hardly visible in many places, leaving an 
unbroken stretch of pali from 1000 to 2000 feet high. Such is 
the case back of Kailua and Kaneohe. The formation is so 
unusual here that it has been often accounted for by the theory 
that this part of the island was once a crater, the northeast rim 
of which slid off into the sea. Undoubtedly, if this island has 
been depressed, the action of the sea waves helped wear away 
the ridges ; but the contour of the land here is no doubt chiefly 
the result of rain erosion. 

The scenery on the windward side of this range is very grand, 
being somewhat similar to that on the north of Kauai. 

1 The Kaukonahua gulch is the one that leads up from Wahiawa. 



40 OAHU 

The lee side of the Koolau range may be divided into two 
parts — that which is protected by the Waianae range, and that 
portion lying back of Honolulu which is exposed to the Kona 
storms; the former is not cut up by erosion to any extent, but 
the latter by many deep gulches, such as Kalihi, Nuuanu, 
and Manoa. These gulches are all fine examples of erosion, the 
streams having worn their way back to the core of the mountain ; 
at Nuuanu the back ridge has been cut through, forming the 
gap at the Pali. 




The "Pali." 

The plain between the mountain ranges is 800 feet high at its 
highest point, near the Leilehua Cattle Ranch. The water north 
of the divide flows to Waialua and that south to Pearl Harbor. 
So the streams from both slopes of the mountain turn at right 
angles, flowing either towards Waialua or Pearl Harbor. The 
plain presents an almost unbroken stretch, and with water would 
make one of the most productive parts of our Territory. The 
slopes of this plain on both sides are planted with sugar cane. 



DRAINAGE 41 

Tufa Cones. — Near Honolulu there are a number of tufa 
cones which not only play an important part in the general 
topography of the country, but are of historic interest as well. 
The most important of these are : Koko Head, Diamond Head, 
Punchbowl, and the Salt Lake Crater (Aliapaakai). These 
cones are composed of cinders and tufa ; the eruptions which 
formed them were probably of very short duration, lasting but 
an hour or so. 

Diamond Head is a marked and picturesque feature of the 
landscape. The rim of this crater is a complete circle ; the 
highest point is on the south side. The rim has been broken 
down in one or two places, and both slopes of the south wall 
have been cut up by a number of small ravines, possessing all 
the qualities of the range back of them. Animals enter the 
crater freely, and it is used as a pasture. During the rainy 
season there is a pond of water in the bowl. 

Punchbowl (just back of Honolulu) is much older than 
Diamond Head, its crater being almost entirely filled with 
debris washed from the sides. The material thrown from this 
cone covers a large part of the surface of the site upon which 
Honolulu stands. Punchbowl was the site of a battery of cannon 
placed there by Kamehameha I. to defend the town. These 
guns have now been removed. 

The Salt Lake Crater (east of Pearl Harbor) is a twin cone ; 
in the bowl of the larger cone there is a salt lake which is 
supposed to be connected with the sea. During dry times a 
thick crust of salt forms on the surface of this lake. The other 
cone contained a fresh-water pond, but this has been drained 
away and the bowl planted with sugar cane. 

In the Tantalus series of cones (just back of Honolulu), upon 
which there are now a number of suburban residences, there 
are many tufa cones. The peculiar black sand which is so com- 
monly found about the city came from these cones. 

Drainage. — Owing to the nature and arrangement of its 
mountain ranges, Oahu is not supplied with as many or as large 
running streams of water as are found on the other islands. 



42 OAHU 

Except in times of southerly storms, the rainfall on the Waianae 
range is not great, as the wind is first intercepted by the Koolau 
range ; so that there are but a few small streams on this part of 
the island. Owing to the short, abrupt slope on the windward 
side of the Koolau range and the long broken line of sharp peaks 
at the summit, very little of the heavy rainfall is conserved, 
but immediately finds its way to lower levels ; thus on both 
sides of this range there is an abundance of water which appears 
at sea level in the form of springs, or underground streams. 

The fact that there was much fresh water escaping along the 
seashore finally led to the experiment of sinking artesian wells. 
In 1879 a small flow was secured from a drill sunk at Honou- 
liuli near the Ewa Mill. The following year two wells were 
sunk near Oahu College in the outskirts of Honolulu, one of 
which (Ontario Well) yielded a strong flow of water. There 
was great excitement when the water first gushed from these bor- 
ings. Other wells were immediately sunk about the city and on 
different parts of the island, so that now there are between 200 
and 300 in all ; only a part of these, however, are flowing wells, 
the water being pumped from the greater number of them. 

The discovery of this artesian water has added greatly to the 
prosperity of the island. A great stimulus was immediately 
given to the rice industry ; and the establishment of the exten- 
sive sugar plantations along the dry and barren coastal plain 
of Oahu was made possible. Since the first artesian well was 
sunk, Honolulu has grown rapidly, for previous to that time the 
water supply was quite insufficient. 

After a number of wells had been sunk, a noted engineer pre- 
dicted that the supply of water would be exhausted in a year or 
two. This led to the passing of a statute by the legislature, 
making it obligatory that all flowing wells be capped. 

This artesian water is found in a porous layer of rock (vesicu- 
lar lava) between two clay strata. The water rises in the bor- 
ing through the pressure of the incoming sea water, — in Hono- 
lulu it does not rise higher than 42 feet above sea level. These 
flowing wells are peculiar to the islands of Oahu and Kauai, 



INDUSTRIES 



43 



which has a few wells at Kealia ; for there are no flowing wells 
elsewhere on the group. 

Industries. — The sugar estates of Oahu comprise some of 
the most extensive in the group. They number seven. 1 As all 
of these plantations depend largely upon artesian wells for their 
water supply, very little cane is flumed, but it is carried to the 
mills by a system of permanent and portable tracks. 




Waipahu Sugar Mill. 

The Ewa Plantation occupies the low, flat lands on the west 
side of Pearl Lochs and above Barber's Point, which is an ele- 
vated coral reef covered by wash from the highlands. The soil 
here is particularly well adapted for cane growing, the average 
yield per acre being greater than that of any other plantation 
on the islands. The entire water supply is pumped from arte- 
sian wells. 

Formerly there was a small plantation at Waialua which was 

1 See Appendix A for list of plantations. 



44 



OAHU 



irrigated by water from the streams; but a new company was 
organized which developed water by sinking artesian wells, 
and by the construction of a huge dam across the junction of 
the north and south forks of the Kaukonahua gulch at Wahiawa. 
When the dam is filled, the water backs up in the two forks of 
the gulch, forming a lake which extends four miles inland. The 
water is carried by a system of ditches and tunnels to the upper 
lands of the plantation. This plantation occupies all of the low 
lands about Waialua, stretching as far up on the highlands as 
the water supply will admit. It is destined to become one of 
the most important sugar producers of the group. 

Artesian wells furnish water for the lowlands at Waipahu 
(Oahu Sugar Company) and Aiea (Honolulu Plantation); the 
lands on the upper slopes being irrigated from mountain streams, 
except during dry weather, when it is sometimes necessary to 
pump water even upon these lands. 

The Waianae Plantation occupies two of the broad valleys on 
the lee side of the Waianae range. 

Kahuku is on the north end of Oahu ; the cane planted at the 
Mormon settlement at Laie is ground here. 

The Waimanalo Plantation is a small one occupying a flat near 
the southwest end of the island. 




Rice Fields at Moanalua. Koolau Range in Background. 

On the lowlands about Honolulu and Pearl Lochs a great deal 
of rice is grown. On the windward side of the island it is the 
chief industry, the narrow coastal plain of Koolauloa and Koo- 
laupoko being occupied by an almost unbroken stretch of rice 
fields. 



INDUSTRIES 45 

Parts of Oahu are well adapted to pineapple growing. Pine- 
apples are planted extensively at Wahiawa, on the lands above 
Pearl City, and on the homesteads at Pupukea and Paumalu, 
between Waimea and Kahuku. Some of the fruit is canned on 
the field, but the greater part is sent by rail to the Hawaiian 
Fruit Company's cannery in Honolulu, where it is prepared 
for market. 

Sisal is grown extensively near the Ewa Plantation, where 
there is a mill which prepares the fiber for the market. 

Besides transporting the sugar from the various plantations 
to Honolulu, the railroad which nearly girds Oahu, with its 
branch road extending from Waipahu to Wahiawa, gives an 
impetus to a number of small industries in different parts of the 
island by affording ready means of transportation to a market. 

The lands of Oahu not utilized for agriculture are devoted to 
cattle raising. There are a number of small ranches on differ- 
ent parts of the island. 

Fish Ponds. — Owing to the shallowness of the water along 
the shore and the number of protected bays and sheltered coves, 
there are a great number of fish ponds about the island of Oahu. 
These are most extensive along the Koolauloa, Koolaupoko, and 
Honolulu shores. Most of the fish ponds were built in ancient 
times ; in some cases a wall was built across the entrance to a 
small bay, but more often semicircular walls were made inclos- 
ing a portion of sea water. The walls were loosely constructed 
of stones to allow free access to the sea water, and were pro- 
vided with gates so that the fish could be driven into the 
ponds. 

This industry has almost entirely passed into the hands of 
Chinamen, who have repaired the walls of disused ponds and 
carry on the industry as they were taught by the Hawaiians. 
Mullet (ama-ama) are chiefly raised in these ponds, though awa 
and other small fish breed there also. When a part of the fish 
are large enough, they are caught in nets. After this the 
ponds are allowed to rest for a while, when the fish are again 
caught. 



4 6 



OAHU 



At Kailua there is an extensive inland pond, and also near 
Honolulu there are similar smaller ponds, where fresh-water 
mullet are raised. 

Districts. — The districts of Oahu are Honolulu, Ewa and 
Waianae, Waialua, Koolauloa, and Koolaupoko. 

The district of Honolulu is a small one, but it contains about 
one fourth of the population of the whole group. Ewa and 
Waianae comprise more than a third of the island; and, with 
the Honolulu district, constitute the most important section of 
the group. Koolauloa and Koolaupoko occupy the entire wind- 
ward side of the island. 

Honolulu. — Honolulu, the capital city of the Territory, is a 
town of about 40,000 inhabitants. It is situated on a small, 




City of Honolulu. 

well-protected bay on the south side of Oahu. The harbor has 
been enlarged by dredging, so that it can now accommodate a 
large fleet of vessels, and float the largest of ocean-going steam- 
ers. The Oahu Railway and Land Company's slips occupy the 
western side of the harbor, and the Marine Railway Dry Dock 
and Naval Wharves the opposite side. 

The wholesale business houses are located near the wharves, 
below the intersection of King and Fort streets. From this 
point the city stretches along the coastal plain five or six miles, 
extending well up into the valleys back of the town. 

Honolulu is the commercial center of the group, being con- 
nected by railway with all parts of Oahu, and by a frequent 
steamer service with the other islands of the group. Nearly all 
of the Trans-Pacific lines of steamships make this a port of call. 



HONOLULU 



47 




Young Hotel, Honolulu. 

The town is well laid out in parks, has a good water and 
sewer system, a well-equipped fire department, a fine electric car 
service to all parts of the city, and is lighted with electricity and 
gas. Besides a number of excellent business blocks, there are 
some fine public buildings and churches. In addition to an ex- 
cellent public school system, there are a number of good denomi- 
national schools. There are a number of points of interest 
about the town, as Waikiki, Nuuanu Valley and the Pali, 
Diamond Head, Punchbowl, Tantalus, Moanalua, The Aquarium 
at Waikiki, and the Bishop Museum. 

Waikiki is a suburb of Honolulu, situated along the shore ex- 
tending from Diamond Head towards town. There are a number 
of bathing resorts here, and a fine beach. Kapiolani Park is 
located at Waikiki. 

The Pali commands a splendid panoramic view of the opposite 
side of the island. It is in the Nuuanu Valley, where Kame- 
hameha by his victory over Kalanikupule finally made himself 
master of the group. It is said that the remnant of the defeated 
army were brought to bay at a point near the Pali, and that 



4 8 



OAHU 



here they leaped to death rather than suffer the tortures of 
capture. 

Moanalua is a beautiful country residence, the park-like 
grounds of which are open to the public. 

At the Kamehameha Schools is the Bishop Museum. The 
chief feature of this museum is its Hawaiian collection, but it 
also includes the world's finest collection of Polynesian relics 




Hawaiian Hotel. 

and antiquities. There is also a fine Hawaiian and Polynesian 
ethnological collection in the museum. 

Just beyond the limits of the town near Moanalua is the 
United States Military Camp, Fort Shafter. 

Other Towns. — Aiea, Waipahu, and Ewa Mill are plantation 
settlements. The so-called Pearl City is a small settlement on 
the railroad at which is located the public cemetery. A branch 
road extends from Pearl City to the Peninsula, where there are 
a number of suburban residences. Waianae is the only town of 
importance on the west side of the island. At Waialua there 



OTHER TOWNS 49 

is a large settlement, though it is somewhat scattered ; a fine 
hotel is located here on the sea beach. Laie is a Mormon settle- 
ment ; there are a Mormon school and church here. Hauula, 
Waikane, and Kaneohe are the chief places on the windward 
side of the island. 

At Waialee, near Kahuku, is the Boys' Industrial School, 
which is a model institution of its kind. 

Not far from the Ewa Mill, below Sisal, is the United States 
Magnetic Station. 



MoUolowena 



Keahole Pf ' 



Meg/vP^^ 1 55° 40 



Lonqitude 



West 



Maiwi Pr 



Kailua Boy 




5° 



Greenwich 




IAWAII 

ed from Govr.Survey Maps 

by 

, old win %f Alexander 

Civil Engineers 

MILES 

j 5 IP 15 2 

1907 



HAWAII 

Physical Features. — Hawaii is at 

the extreme southeastern end of the 
group. This island, which is 4015 
square miles in extent, includes 
about five eighths of the area of the 
whole group. It is a little smaller 
than Connecticut, and larger than 
Porto Rico by 680 square miles. 

Roughly speaking, Hawaii is a 
triangle, the chief capes — Upolu 
Point, Kumukahi Point, and South 
Point (Ka Lae) — being at the an- 
gles. On the windward side there 
are high cliffs ; near the Waipio and 
Waimanu valleys these cliffs are 
several thousand feet high. Hilo, 
Kealakekua, Kailua, and Kawaihae 
are the chief bays of Hawaii. These 
bays were formed by lava flows 
which have pushed their way out 
into the sea on one or both sides. 
None of the bays have protecting 
coral reefs such as are found on the 
other islands. The reef in the Hilo 
Bay is a submerged lava flow ; 
Cocoanut Island is a portion of the 
same flow. 

As Hawaii is a new island, there 
is comparatively little coral found 
about it ; and its beaches are mostly 
of black sand, or white and black 
sand mixed. 

The island of Hawaii consists of 
the mountain masses of the Kohala 
range, Mauna Kea, Hualalai, and 
Mauna Loa. The sea has eaten its 

5 1 



52 



HAWAII 



way deeply into the slopes of the Kohala Mountains and Mauna 
Kea on the windward side, forming a long line of cliffs several 
thousand feet high in places, but no inroads to speak of have 
been made on the Hualalai and Mauna Loa slopes on the oppo- 
site side. The spaces between the mountains were water ways, 
no doubt, at one time, but these were filled by lava flows, and 
are now plateaus. 

Kohala Mountains. — The Kohala range is the oldest of 
Hawaii's mountains, being as old as West Maui and Waianae 




Northeast Coast, Hawaii. 

of Oahu. We judge this to be so from the amount of ero- 
sion which has taken place. The highest point of this range, 
which seems to consist chiefly of a collection of cinder cones, is 
5489 feet above sea level. 

The Waipio and Waimanu region is a part of this range. 
The remarkable gulches and stupendous sea cliffs which are 
found here may not be wholly the work of erosion, but perhaps 
partly the result of a great fault which caused a section of the 
coast here to break off into the sea. 



MOUNTAINS 



53 




Waipio Valley and Hiilawe Fall. 



The summit of the Kohala Mountains, which is said to consist 
of a peat bog, is heavily wooded, as are also the windward slopes. 

The Waipio Valley is the largest of the Hawaiian gulches. 
It is not a pretty one, however, with the exception of the spot 
where the beautiful Hiilawe fall takes its plunge of 1700 feet. 
But there is no Hiilawe now, except in very rainy times, for the 
Kukuihaele Plantation has taken the water for fluming cane. 
This gulch runs back for three or four miles and then turns at 
right angles, running past the head of the Waimanu Valley. 

Waimanu is deeper than Waipio, but is not so wide. This 
gulch is chiefly remarkable for the amazing semicircular pali 
at its head, with its numerous waterfalls. The Waimanu is a 
short gulch, extending only four miles back to the ridge that 
separates it from the Waipio Valley. 

There is a trail from Waipio to Waimanu which crosses 
twelve ravines in the distance between the two great gulches. 
In rainy weather this path is not a safe one to travel on horse- 





54 







back. Both of these gulches contain wide 
flood plains, having a gentle slope inland from 
sea level. In their lower sections the valley 
bottoms are entirely planted with rice. 

Mauna Kea. — Mauna Kea occupies more 
than half of the northern part of Hawaii, 
nearly the whole of the South Kohala, Hama- 
kua, and Hilo districts being on its slopes. It 
is the highest island mountain of the world, 
being 13,825 feet high. 

Mauna Kea does not end in a peak, but has 
a summit platform about five miles long and 
two miles wide. Upon this platform there 
are a dozen or more huge cinder cones. A 
great number of these cinder cones are also 
found about the upper part of the mountain, 

— they are Mauna Kea's striking feature. 
The north and east sides of Mauna Kea 

have a heavy rainfall, the lower slopes of 
Hilo and Hamakua being cut up by many 
gulches. These gulches are of a good size, 
but do not compare with those of West Maui, 
Oahu, and Kauai, for they hardly extend to 
the base of the summit dome, while the great 
valleys on the other islands have eaten their 
way into the very heart of the mountain. The 
upper part of the windward slope has not suf- 
fered much from erosion yet, while the oppo- 
site side shows scarcely any weathering at all. 
The lower slopes are heavily wooded on the 
windward side (north and east), but on the 
opposite side they are quite bare. 

During winter storms this mountain, as well 
as Mauna Loa, is heavily covered with snow 

— the snow reaching more than halfway to 
the forest line at times. 

On the south side of Mauna Kea's platform, 
12,000 feet above sea level, is the ancient 
55 



56 



HAWAII 



quarry of Keanakakoi, where the natives made their stone adzes. 
Also, among the cinder cones on the summit is Lake Waiau — 
a small lake of a few acres in extent, and having a depth of 40 
feet, which is fed from the melting snows. 




Summit of Mauna Kea. 



Hualalai. — Hualalai is a much smaller mountain than Mauna 
Kea, but otherwise it is very similar. Like Mauna Kea, Huala- 
lai has no crater on its summit. Probably the craters on both 
of these mountains were filled with lava and then buried out of 
sight beneath the sand and fragments thrown from the cones on 
their summits. Hualalai is 8269 feet high. 

The mountain is almost entirely within the district of Kona. 
Near the sea the slope is gradual, but above this it is abrupt. 
The north side of the mountain is bare, but the other sides are 
wooded, though not heavily. There are no gulches whatever 
on the slopes of this mountain. 

The last flow from Hualalai was in 1801. This flow broke 
out low down on the mountain not many miles north of Kailua. 
Kamehameha visited it and threw a lock of his hair into the 
flowing lava to appease the wrath of Pele. 



MOUNTAINS 



57 



Mauna Loa. — Mauna Loa covers the whole southern half of 
Hawaii and a part of the Hamakua and Hilo districts. Here 
we find the forces which have made our islands, still at work in 
the volcanoes of Kilauea and Mokuaweovveo. 




Trail to Summit of Mauna Loa. 

Mauna Kea can be ascended easily on any side, but not so 
Mauna Loa ; for on every side there are wide regions of the 
roughest of lava flows extending from near the summit to the 
seashore. Where there is rain, these flows are covered with 
heavy forests, and are fast being converted into soil, but in the 
rainless regions they are as bare and rugged as when they first 
came down. 

The cones found on Mauna Loa mark the spot where out- 
breaks of lava occurred. The slope on the upper part of the 
mountain is much less abrupt than that on Mauna Kea. Like 
Mauna Kea, it, too, has the summit platform. Sunk in this 
platform is its crater, Mokuaweoweo — the second largest active 
volcano in the world. 

Mokuaweoweo is not always active, but is so only at times. 

GEOG. H. I. — 3 



58 



HAWAII 



When it is active, there is a lake of lava in the lower part of the 
crater, with playing fountains, presenting a magnificent spectacle 
at night from the brink. This activity usually lasts a few days 
and then the lava forces its way through the side of the moun- 
tain, making a lava flow. When the lava thus finds an outlet 
lower down, the eruption in the crater ceases. 




Eruption in Mokuaweoweo Crater, 1903. 




Night View of Eruption in Crater. 

Mauna Loa is 13,675 feet high, its platform being higher than 
that of Mauna Kea ; it is the cinder cones of this latter mountain 
which carry it 150 feet higher than Mauna Loa. The crater of 
Mokuaweoweo is 3^ miles long and if miles wide ; it is inclosed 
by walls from 500 to 1000 feet high. 

Kilauea. 1 — Kilauea is on the northeastern slope of Mauna 
Loa, 4000 feet above the sea. It is the largest active volcano in 

1 " Crater of Kilauea," Charles W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, November, 1900. 



MOUNTAINS 



59 




Lava Cascade in Crater of Kilauea. 





Crevice in Floor of Crater. 



6o 



HAWAII 



the world. The crater is a huge, lava-covered pit. This pit 
rises towards a spot near the south side, giving it, as seen from 
the Volcano House, the appearance of being nearly filled. At 
one time the crater was much deeper than it is now, containing 
a pit within a pit. But the lava has buried the lower pit out of 
sight and is gradually filling the other. Formerly a lake of lava 
was always to be found in the crater of Kilauea, but of late this 




Volcano House. 

lake has disappeared at times. At such times there is a huge 
pit where the lake was, from which a dense cloud of sulphjurous 
smoke is constantly rising, and spots about the pit are very hot 
— too hot to stand on. 

The crater of Kilauea will always be an object of great inter- 
est, and well worth a visit, even when no fire is to be seen there. 

Some points of interest about the crater are the sulphur 
banks ; the koa forest ; Kilauea Iki, a deep pit crater ; and the 
pit craters near the Puna trail. 



TABLE-LANDS — LAVA FLOWS 6 1 

Kilauea is three miles in'length and two miles wide. The side 
towards the Volcano House is 500 feet high in places, but the 
opposite or south side is very low. 

Table-lands. — The table-land between the Kohala Mountains 
and Mauna Kea is from 2500 to 3000 feet high. This is a 
grass-covered plateau, affording excellent pasturage for the large 
herds of the Parker Ranch Company. 

The plateau between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa is from 
5000 to 6000 feet high. In contrast to the other one this is but 
a tangled mass of lava flows of the roughest kind. A large 
number of the more recent flows from Mauna Loa have passed 
over this region — flowing to the sea between Puako and Kiholo, 
or towards Hilo. As the greater part of the plateau is in the 
rainless region between the two mountains, even the oldest of 
the lava flows have changed but little. The Humuula Sheep 
Station uses a portion of the region as a sheep pasture, but the 
larger part of the plateau must remain forever a useless waste 
of lava. 

Lava Flows. 1 — A striking feature of Hawaii is its lava-cov- 
ered regions and lava flows. In the rainless sections a great 
many of the flows look very new, but no one knows when they 
occurred. Within the last hundred years there have been eleven 
great flows ; nine from Mauna Loa, one from Hualalai, and one 
from Kilauea. 

Five of the flows broke from a spot on Mauna Loa's north- 
eastern slope, 11,000 feet high. Three of the flows (1852, 1855, 
and 1 881) which broke from this spot seriously threatened the 
town of Hilo; one of them, the 1881 flow, coming within three- 
quarters of a mile of Waiakea, and the 1855 flow seven miles 
from the town, when, for some unknown reason, it began 
spreading and banking, which it continued to do for thirteen 
months. 

Three of the flows (1868, 1887, and 1907) broke out on the 
southern slope, and one (1859), on tne northwestern slope of the 
mountain, flowing around Hualalai into the sea at Kiholo. 

1 " Lava Flows of Hawaii," Charles W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People. 



HAWAII 




Trail over Lava Field. 



The flow of 1840 from Kilauea forced its way along just be- 
low the surface, finally breaking out and flowing eight miles to 
the sea in Puna. The flows from Kilauea have usually occurred 
in this manner. They have flowed chiefly over Puna. 

Usually these lava flows have broken out very quietly, a 
bright light upon the mountain side being the only indication 
that an eruption was in progress. The 1868 eruption was an 
exception, for a week before this outbreak occurred the Kau 
district was shaken by the most fearful earthquakes. The lava 
finally forced its way out through a long rent in the mountain 
side two miles above the present Kahuku Ranch houses, pour- 
ing out an overwhelming flood, which soon reached the sea. 

During one of the heaviest of the 1868 earthquakes a water- 
soaked pali near the Kapapala Ranch in Kau was torn off and 
hurled down over the land a distance of three or four miles, 
overwhelming a native village. This is known as the " Mud 
Flow " ; thirty lives were lost in it. (The Mud Flow is now 
planted with sugar cane, the best cane grown on the Pahala 
Plantation being on the flow.) 



CLIMATE 63 

This same earthquake caused a disastrous tidal wave to sweep 
the Puna and Kau coasts, destroying the village of Honuapo and 
drowning a number of people. It also opened a deep fissure 
(1868 Crack), eighteen miles in length, through the lower end of 
which, at a point above the sea between Punaluu and the old 
Keauhou landing, the lake of lava in the crater of Kilauea 
emptied itself, forming a pahoehoe flow. 

It is not known that any lives have been lost in the lava flows 
of Hawaii. These flows have passed over waste regions, with 
the exception of . those of 1868 and 1887, which destroyed the 
best of the Kahuku pastures. 

Mokuaweoweo was usually active a few days before one of 
these outbreaks occurred, the activity in the crater ceasing when 
the lava forced its way out lower down. The lava pouring out 
in a great fountain of fire, and the fiery stream hurrying off 
down the mountain side, presented a spectacle seldom equaled 
for grandeur. 

Climate. — Owing to the height and position of its mountains, 
Hawaii has a greater variety of climate than the other islands of 
the group. 

Usually the trade wind reaches nearly all parts of our islands 
by blowing over and around them, but the mountains of Hawaii 
are too high and large, hence the whole western side of the 
island, which includes the larger part of South Kohala and both 
the Konas, is entirely free from this wind. 

That portion of the island sheltered from the trade wind is 
generally dry, but Kona is an exception to the rule. There is a 
dry belt near the sea, a mile or so wide, but above this the rain- 
fall is abundant. The mountain slope, a short distance back 
from the shore, is abrupt, hence the sea breeze is turned up- 
wards, meeting the colder air above before it has had a chance 
to lose its moisture, and rain is the result. Kona's rainy season 
is during the summer months, and its dry season in the winter. 

The region extending from Kalapana in Puna on one side to 
Papaaloa in Hilo on the other is directly exposed to the trades, 
yet this wind is seldom felt here. This is due to the position of 



64 HAWAII 

the mountains back of this part of the island, which check 
the wind, turning it upward and to one side. The moisture- 
laden wind thus turned upwards meets the cold air above, and 
causes the heavy rainfall of this region. The town of Hilo, 
which is near the center of this tract, has been well named the 
" Rainy City," having as great a rainfall as almost any place in 
the world. Owing to the heavy rainfall the Hilo and Puna dis- 
tricts are covered with dense forests. 

The rainless regions of Hawaii are the plateau between 
Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, a wide district from Kawaihae to 
Kiholo, and a belt of land near the sea extending through Kona, 
Kau, and into southern Puna. This dry belt is very narrow in 
Kona, but widens before South Point is reached in Kau. 

The larger part of this rainless tract is covered with lava flows 
which appear quite fresh, though they may be hundreds of years 
old. The regions from Puako to Kiholo, Hoopuloa to South 
Point, and between Punaluu and Kalapana are very interesting, 
being covered by the newest of the flows. There is a trail over 
the lava from Puako to Kiholo which is often traveled, but the 
two latter sections are never crossed. 

Vegetation. — With the exception of the section between 
Hualalai on the south and the Kohala Mountains on the north, 
Hawaii is encircled with a wide forest belt. On the windward 
side this forest belt formerly extended to the cliffs along the 
coast. The finest and most impenetrable forests of the group 
are those found in the Hilo and Puna districts. 

These forests do not differ in make-up from those on the 
other islands, except that there are groves of young sandalwood 
trees found in parts of Kona and Kau, and in the Olaa jungles 
there are a great many loulu palms. (These latter are a species 
of fan palm, from the undeveloped leaves of which the finest 
Hawaiian hats are made.) 

The forest belt extends as high as 6000 and 7000 feet ; above 
this there are shrubs and a species of long grass which grow 
up to an elevation of 11,000 feet; still higher the mountain is 
bare of plant life. 



INDUSTRIES 



65 



The North Kohala section of the island has been denuded of 
forest trees by fire and cattle to such a degree that the water- 
sheds have been affected, causing springs to dry up and the 
rainfall to decrease. 

Industries. — Ha- 
waii has twenty-five 
sugar plantations, 1 
and produces one 
third of the whole 
amount of sugar pro- 
duced in the group. 
Most of the sugar 
comes from the wind- 
ward side of the 
island, where cane is 
grown without irriga- 
tion. From Olaa to 
Waipio is an almost 
continuous belt of 
sugar cane, broken 
only by the gulches. 

Nearly all of the 
coffee grown on the 
Hawaiian Islands 
comes from the Ha- 
makua and Kona dis- 
tricts. 

The Waipio, Wai- 
manu, and Pololu 
valleys are the only places on Hawaii where rice is raised. 
This rice is packed to the landing on the backs of mules. 

Parts of Hawaii are well adapted to the growing of fruits, and 
no doubt a great many such would be raised by the homesteaders 
and small farmers, were it not for the difficulty of getting them 
to market. 



~9HH 


' .■''*' : ■ - : ■■ 


. ■ ; V: 








M 


- - 
















V^ • ' *l| 






''WBktfmfi&vm 


mm 


~^1 












> 






v^WmffM 




HBBBpy- 




^'^MSmmjE* 




ktj.a^fcf 




IsS^' 




'* y ';# 








iHPfc" 



























•**■ 


||p^ 


U{ ' '" J.\ ■.-■■- ~'» ^■"■:iyt. 


' - ,« 


1$ A j^-lcr 


*$k 




' . -;■■■■ 






'::■■.'.■, ..,..;;,, : -'\.;-,;.';-,' i ..".;,. - ..:."r V .' -V.'l;'; 'i"'.:: :'/•"."■-' : ' . ...y^. ' ■■ ;. : ■ ' :...::■ : : .. ; 


-■ y 



Forest in Olaa. 



1 See Appendix A for list of plantations. 



66 



HAWAII 




Heiau (Ancient Temple) at Kawaihae. 




Entrance to Heiau. 



KOHALA 67 

Dry-land taro is chiefly raised on Hawaii. This is planted 
among the forest trees, requiring only to be weeded a few times 
to produce a good crop. 

Cattle raising is an important industry on Hawaii, large tracts 
in various parts of the island being used for that purpose. Most 
of these places would not be fit for anything else, as they are 
rough, lava-covered regions, but the finest of cattle are raised 
on them. 

In parts of South Kona and Puna the chief industry is fish- 
ing, the fish being dried and sent to the Honolulu market. 

Districts. — The districts of Hawaii are Kohala (divided into 
North and South Kohala), Hamakua, Hilo, Puna, Kau, and 
Kona (divided into North and South Kona). 

South Kohala. — South Kohala is almost entirely within one 
of the dry regions, hence is not of much importance. There is 
a small plantation at Puako, the cane being irrigated by means 
of pumps. The wireless station is located at Puako. The 
Parker Ranch, one of the largest cattle ranches on the islands, 
is chiefly within this district. Kawaihae and Waimea are the 
principal places. The Hamakua passengers and mail are 
landed at Kawaihae. A great many cattle, also, are shipped 
here. Formerly there was scarcely a shrub to be found at 
Kawaihae, but the village is now enveloped in algaroba trees. 

On a hill overlooking the bay and village of Kawaihae is the 
heiau of Puukohola, built by Kamehameha in the year 1791. 
This was one of the largest and most recent of the heiaus built. 
It is very well preserved, the inclosing walls being almost perfect. 
The heiau was built as a favor to the gods to secure to Kame- 
hameha the kingdom of Hawaii, and so was undoubtedly the 
incentive which led the impatient conqueror to the treacherous 
murder of the brave Keoua as he leaped ashore on the sands 
almost within its shadow. 

North Kohala. — For many years the growing crops in Kohala 
were dependent upon the rainfall for their water supply, but a 
ditch was recently constructed into the Kohala Mountains, and 
now all of the plantations irrigate their cane. This ditch is 



68 



HAWAII 



owned by the Kohala Ditch Company, the water being leased 
to the planters. 

The Kohala ditch is twenty-five miles in length, extending 
from Wailoa, which is not far from the head of the great Waipio 
gulch, to the lands above Honoipu. The construction of this 
ditch was a great undertaking, for it traverses a rugged and 




Statue of Kamehameha in Kohala. 

broken country. Sixteen miles of the ditch consists of tunnels. 
The scenery along the ditch line is some of the finest in the 
group. 

Hawi, whose cane fields extend well around toward Honoipu, 
is the chief plantation of the district, being as large as the others 
combined. 

The sugar is sent by railroad to Mahukona, except that 
from Hawi, which is shipped from Honoipu. Mahukona and 
Honoipu are the only landings for Kohala now, the others 
having been long ago abandoned. Sugar is shipped directly to 
San Francisco from both of these places. 



HAMAKUA 69 

Kohala usually means that part of the district occupied by the 
plantations. Kapaau is the central place of this part of the dis- 
trict, and contains the post office and the courthouse. There 
are settlements at each of the mills. 

Kohala has a larger percentage of white people than is usu- 
ally found in the out-districts ; also there is a large Chinese 
population. The Kohala Seminary, the girls' industrial school 
for the island, is located here. At Kapaau is the statue of Ka- 
mehameha I. It is said that Kamehameha was born near this 
spot. 

No doubt many changes will take place in this district since 
the construction of the Kohala ditch, for there are large tracts 
of land above Honoipu that need only water to make them pro- 
duce the finest of cane. We should also expect the center of 
population to shift gradually towards Hawi. 

Hamakua. — Outside of the Waipio region Hamakua has no 
running streams, or even springs. This is due to the abrupt 
slope of this part of the island, which allows the water to run 
off readily, and to the fact that the gulches run up towards 
the Waimea plateau, thus having no good watershed back of 
them. 

Two ditches have been recently constructed, bringing the 
Waipio water upon the Hamakua lands. The plantations nearest 
the gulch use this water for irrigating and fluming their cane, 
and a portion is used for establishing waterworks for the differ- 
ent villages. Thus great changes have been brought about in 
this district, for, while rain is abundant as a rule, at times there 
are severe droughts, when water is very scarce. 

Owing to the lack of streams of water and to the abrupt slope, 
the plantations of Hamakua have had great difficulty in finding 
means for transporting their cane to the mills. Kukaiau has 
constructed a complete system of trolley cables. The cane is 
tied up in bundles and fastened to a trolley which is then placed 
upon the wire, and so it glides swiftly to the mill. Paauilo has 
accomplished the difficult task of laying a railroad up through 
its fields. The other plantations of the district have built rail- 



70 



HAWAII 



roads out on either side of the mill, sending the cane down to 
these tracks by gravity roads or flumes. 

The government road is a mile or more from the shore — 
the settlements being divided between this road and the mills, 
which are near the bluffs along the shore. 




Honokaa Landing, Hamakua. 

Each mill has its own landing. The sugar is swung out to the 
boat or vessel by means of a derrick which is operated by a donkey 
engine. In rough weather these landings cannot be used at all. 

Next to Kona Hamakua is the chief coffee district of Hawaii. 
One of the finest coffee estates of the group is in this district, at 
Kalopa, above Paauhau — the Louisson Plantation. It is said 
that the trees of this plantation bear so heavily that when the 
berries are ripe, it appears as if a red blanket were spread over 
the field. 

The largest place in Hamakua is Honokaa. Paauhau, Paauilo, 
Waipio, and Kukuihaele are important places as well. 

Waipio is connected with Kukuihaele by a steep trail up the 
east side of the valley. A road was once built around the sea 
cliffs from Kukuihaele to Waipio, but large sections of this road 
have been destroyed by landslides, and it is now impassable. 

In ancient times Waipio was one of the chief places of 
Hawaii, having a large population. It was here that Kame- 



HILO 



71 



hameha landed after the sea fight off Waimanu to bury his dead, 
marching the next day to Waimea, up historic " Mud Lane." 

At Ahualoa, above Honokaa, and Kalopa, above Paauhau, are 
a large number of homesteads. 

Hilo —In contrast to Hamakua, the Hilo district has many 
deep gulches, each of which has a large, ever-running stream. 
However, with the exception of the gorge of the Wailuku, which 
probably began in a lava tunnel, these gulches, though they are 
large near the sea, do not extend far inland. 

This district is one of the most pleasant places of the group, 
being always green and free from high winds or dust. At night 
there is a gentle land breeze from Mauna Kea, and during the 
day the air is kept cool by the sea breeze. 




Cane Flume, Hilo. 



As water is abundant in the Hilo district, it is used almost 
entirely for transporting the cane from the fields to the mill. 
The highest and longest flumes on the islands are found here. 



72 



HAWAII 



Portable flumes are used for getting the cane to the main flumes 
which carry it to the mill. 

As in Hamakua, each plantation has its own landing ; but here 
the sugar is sent to the vessel on a wire cable which passes from 
the cliff over the steamer's deck. 




Plantation Landing. 

The chief places of the district, named in order from north 
to south, are Laupahoehoe, Papaaloa, Honomu, Onomea, Pa- 
paikou, ariti Hilo Town. (Waiakea and Wainaku are suburbs 
of Hilo.) 

The town of Hilo is superbly situated, the view from the bay, 
with the peaks of Mauna Loa and snow-capped Mauna Kea in 
the distance, making a scene of rare beauty. 

Ships can always find a safe anchorage in Hilo Bay, but at 
times the swell breaks over the reef, and then vessels cannot lie 
at the wharves. The landing is on the Waiakea side of the bay, 
where a long pier has been built. The large freighters are 
loaded by scows towed out from the Waiakea River. (Plans are 



HILO 



73 



now under way for a breakwater, which, when completed, will 
make this bay a fine harbor.) 

Hilo is the distributing center for the Puna and Hilo districts. 
It is connected with Puna by railroad, and with various points 




Sugar Mill in Hilo District (Wainaku). 

in Hilo by steamer service. The sugar from the various planta- 
tions is sent to Hilo, where it is shipped to the Pacific Coast and 
New York. 

The town is well laid out in streets, and is supplied entirely 
with electric lights. There is a fine power house where the 
electricity is developed by water power and furnished at a low 
cost. There is a high school and well-equipped grammar 
school, besides large Catholic schools for boys and girls. Also 
situated at Hilo is the Hilo Boys' Boarding School, from which 
General Armstrong patterned the famous Hampton Institute in 
Virginia. 

The chief residence part of the town is at Pueo on the north 
side of the Wailuku River, which is spanned here by two fine 



bridges. 



GEOG. H. I. 4 



74 



HAWAII 



Points of special interest near Hilo are Cocoanut Island, 
Rainbow Falls, Onomea Gulch and Arch, the pretty Akaka fall 
at Honomu, and the Kaumana Caves (lava channels of the 1881 
flow); but the whole section about the town, with its envelop- 
ing woods and water- 
fall-studded gulches, 
abounds in spots of 
scenic beauty. 

The Onomea Sugar 
Company's Mill is at 
Papaikou, which is the 
most important place in 
the northern section of 
Hilo district. 

Laupahoehoe (see 
pictures, page 76) is the 
halfway house between 
Hilo and Hamakua, and 
also the landing for mail 
and passengers for this 
part of the district. The 
village stands on a tongue 
of lava which juts out 
into the sea from the 
mouth of the Laupahoe- 




Akaka Fall, 500 Feet High. 



hoe gulch. The wharf is in a little cove well protected from 
the wind, and landing is not difficult, though the sea may be 
rough outside. 

Papaaloa is two miles from Laupahoehoe. The mill here 
takes the place of the one which used to be near the landing in 
the gulch. 

At Honomu there is a Japanese school with a boarding de- 
partment. Many Japanese live here in order to send their chil- 
dren to this school. Honomu is one of the prettiest places in 
this part of the district. 



HILO 



75 




Onomea Arch. 




Onomea. 



7 6 



HAWAII 




Laupahoehoe Village. Hilo. 




Cliff at Laupahoehoe. 



PUNA 



77 



Puna. — There is a tradition which says that at one time Puna 
was one of the most fertile districts of Hawaii, but while the 
chief of the district was in Hilo, Pele paid him a visit, pouring 
over his possessions a terrible flood of lava. However, the 
rainfall is so great in parts of the district that this lava has been 
rapidly decomposed, and the heaviest of forests are to be found, 
as in Olaa and the region about Pahoa. 

A large part of the soil of upper Olaa is ash which probably 
came from Kilauea ; the great fertility of this soil is due to the 
decayed vegetable matter which has been added to it. 

There are no streams or springs in Puna, the only dependence 
for water being tanks. 

The Olaa section of Puna is a fine agricultural region, but, 
owing to the want of a market, small-truck farming does not 
pay. However, vanilla, tobacco, pineapples, and bananas grow 
well ; and the rubber industry is destined to be an important 
one, as the climate is particularly well adapted to. the growth of 
rubber trees. The cultivation of coffee in Olaa has been aban- 
doned, as the trees did not thrive there. 

All the lower lands of Olaa are planted with the cane of the 
Olaa Sugar Company. This is one of the largest plantations 
on Hawaii, and occupies nearly all of the available cane land 
of the Puna district, including the Kapoho and Pahoa tracts. 

The Hilo Railroad winds through the Olaa cane fields, extend- 
ing as far as the twenty-two mile post on the Volcano Road. 
This is a splendidly built, broad-gauge road. Branch roads have 
also been built to Kapoho and Pahoa. 

The chief places in Puna are Keaau (Nine Miles), Mountain 
View, Pahoa, Kapoho, and Kalapana. The Puna landings have 
all been abandoned. South Puna is but thinly settled and too 
rocky ever to be of much use. 

A long section of the Puna coast, thirty or forty miles, shows 
evidences of having sunk : cocoanut trees are found below the 
tide level, or their dead stumps stand out in the sea. 

At Kapoho there is a warm spring ; this is a pool about sixty 
feet in length and thirty feet wide, with a depth of twenty-five 



78 



HAWAII 




Lava Tree Casts, Puna. 




Green Lake, Puna. 



KAU 79 

feet, filling a cleft in the lava rock. The water is remarkably 
transparent and buoyant, and is of blood heat. 

Other interesting features of Puna are : the lava tree casts 
found in the forest above Kapoho ; Green Lake, a pretty pond 
of water in a volcanic cone at Kapoho ; the bowlders strewn 
along the coast near Pohoiki by the great 1868 tidal wave; the 
heiau of Wahaula in farthest Puna. (A facsimile in miniature 
of this heiau as it would appear if restored is to be seen in the 
Bishop Museum.) 

Kau. — Near the sea in Kau there is a low belt several miles 
in width which is hot and dry, but above this the land rises 
abruptly, and has a good rainfall. Upon this highland cane 
is planted, and grows well without irrigation. The section 
cultivated with sugar cane is the older portion of the district ; 
being higher it was not covered with lava. 

With the exception of a few small gulches, Kau is entirely 
without valleys and streams — the so-called Wood Valley is 
nothing more than a depression in the mountain side made by 
just such a catastrophe as that which caused the Mud Flow. 
Mountain springs have been developed and storage reservoirs 
built so that the plantations have sufficient water to irrigate 
some of their lower fields and flume nearly all the cane to the 
mill. 

There are two plantations in Kau : the Pahala, or Hawaiian 
Agricultural Company, and Naalehu and Hilea, which comprise 
the Hutchinson Sugar Company. Pahala is one of the largest and 
best plantations on Hawaii. Cane is planted higher here than 
in any other part of the group. The Hilea Mill is at Honuapo. 
Each plantation has a railroad to the landing — Pahala shipping 
its sugar at Punaluu, and Naalehu and Hilea at Honuapo. 
Honuapo is the chief landing of Kau. 

Kapapala and Kahuku are cattle ranches. They occupy 
chiefly the lava regions of Kau. The 1868 and 1887 flows cov- 
ered the best of the Kahuku pastures. 

Besides the landings and plantation settlements, the only 
other place of importance in Kau is Waiohinu. (The landings 



8o 



HAWAII 



at Kaalualu and Keauhou have long since been abandoned.) 
Waiohinu was a flourishing place at one time, being the chief 
market for barter and trade of a large farming population occu- 
pying the land between the village and Kahuku. But these 
people have gone elsewhere, and the town has lost its prestige. 




Honuapo Landing. 

In olden times Kau had a large native population. These 
people cultivated upland patches, but lived chiefly near the sea. 
Their favorite place seems to have been the lava region from 
Honuapo to Punaluu. Near Punaluu a large underground 
stream runs into the sea, and at other points along the coast 
there are springs, which accounts for the selection of this dreary 
spot for a home by these people. 

Kona. — The entire Kona district is composed of partly decom- 
posed lava flows. There are very few level patches in the dis- 
trict, and no place where a baseball ground or a polo field could 
be laid out. 

There are no gulches or streams, and but few springs in the 



KONA 8 1 

district. Small freshets cross the road in a few places in North 
Kona when it rains heavily, but are lost in the rocks before 
they reach the sea. There is only one such place in South 
Kona, where, during a storm, the water may be heard roaring 
above, though it scarcely ever crosses the road. 

There is a warm, dry belt near the sea throughout the district, 
but above this the land rises abruptly into a cool and bracing 
climate, where rain is plentiful. 

Road building is difficult and expensive in Kona, owing to the 
abrupt slope and rocky nature of the district ; hence there is 
but one main road which extends the entire length of the dis- 
trict. This road is from one to four miles above the shore. 
Branch roads extend to all of the landings, but all other places 
must be reached by trails. Donkeys are used entirely for trans- 
portation over these trails. A great many of these useful ani- 
mals are found in Kona. 

Like Olaa, this district is one of the finest agricultural sections 
in the group ; everything grows well here, even though seemingly 
planted right among the rocks. However, many things can- 
not be cultivated with profit, owing to the distance from any 
market and the expense of transporting produce to the landings. 

The chief industry of Kona is coffee — everywhere there are 
coffee fields. Most of these fields are cared for by Japanese. 
There are several good coffee mills in the district, where the 
coffee is prepared in the best way for market. Pineapples, sisal, 
vanilla, and tobacco are also grown. 

Cane planting is not carried on so extensively in Kona as it is 
in the other districts, because cultivation and transportation are 
difficult, owing to the rocky nature of the ground, the abrupt 
slope, and the lack of running water. 

On the upper slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa, which 
afford fine grazing land, there are a number of cattle ranches. 
Owing to the rocky nature of this region, cattle driving is diffi- 
cult and hazardous. 

Kailua and Holualoa are the most important places in the 
northern section of Kona. Holualoa is the largest place in Kona ; 



82 



HAWAII 





Loading Cattle at Kailua. 



KONA 



83 



it is strung out along the road above Kailua. Kailua is the land- 
ing of North Kona. There are two complete coffee mills here, 
where the coffee is pulped, dried, husked, and selected for 
market. Kailua's most striking feature is its great stone church, 




Old Palace, Kailua. 



built in the year 1835, when there was a large native population 
in this region. 

Many of the places in Kona are so much scattered along the 
upper road, or divided between that road and the seashore, that 
it is a little difficult to name them. 

The chief places in the southern section of Kona are: Kai- 
naliu, Napoopoo, Honaunau, and Hookena. As in North Kona, 
the places are strung along the road, or divided between the 
road and the shore. There is a pineapple cannery on the road 
a short distance above Napoopoo. 

Honaunau is now two miles inland, there being but a few huts 
where the ancient village stood by the sea. 



84 



HAWAII 




Fishing Village, Kona. 




Cook's Monument, on Kealakekua Bay. 



KONA 85 

The landings for Kona are : Kailua, Keauhou, Napoopoo, 
Hookena, and Hoopuloa. 

In ancient times Kona was one of the favorite places of the 
natives, and had a large population. These people lived chiefly 
along the seashore, where it was warm and dry, and where the 
placid waters afforded the best of fishing. Trips were made in- 
land to the forests, where dry-land taro was planted. 

Kona abounds in places and objects of historic interest: as, 
the famous City of Refuge at Honaunau ; Kaawaloa (on Kea- 
lakekua Bay), where Cook was killed ; the great stone toboggan 
slide just above Keauhou ; the Judd road, extending from the 
shore between Kailua and Keauhou in a direct line fifteen miles 
towards Hilo ; the stone wall built to exclude the pigs from the 
agricultural land above, and running through the entire district. 

An obelisk has been erected at Kaawaloa to the memory of 
Captain Cook, bearing the following inscription : — 

IN MEMORY OF 

THE GREAT CIRCUMNAVIGATOR 

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N. 

WHO 
DISCOVERED THESE ISLANDS 

on the i 8th of January, a.d. 1778 

AND FELL NEAR THIS SPOT 

on the 14.TH of February, a.d. 1779 



THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED 

in November, a.d. 1874 

by some of 

HIS FELLOW COUNTRYMEN 

Though Cook was killed at Kaawaloa, it was at Napoopoo 
that he landed and did his bartering with the natives. 
Napoopoo is on the opposite side of the bay, and the chief 
settlement is here. 



86 



HAWAII 



The City of Refuge occupies six or seven acres of a low, 
rocky (pahoehoe) point on the south side of the little bay of 
Honaunau. The inclosing walls on the south and east sides are 
still standing, but the others have been destroyed by tidal waves. 
The walls are about twelve feet in height and eighteen feet in 
width. The Hale-o-Keawe stood upon the platform of rock, at 




City of Refuge, Honaunau, Kona. 



the northeast corner, facing the bay. Below this there is a larger 
platform, which marks the site of the lower temple. On either 
side of this latter platform there are two huge altar stones — 
called Keoua's and Kaahumanu's stones. 



MAUI 

Physical Features. — The Maui group, including Maui, Molo- 
kai, Lanai, and Kahoolawe, is midway between Hawaii and 
Oahu, Maui itself being nearest to Hawaii. 

While Maui is second in size of the Hawaiian Islands, con- 
taining 728 square miles, it is five and one half times smaller 
than Hawaii. 

Maui is a double island, with the smaller lobe lying towards 
the northwest. It has no distinct promontories or capes. 
Kauiki Head is the rim of a crater which incloses on one side 
Hana Bay. The so-called Kahakuloa Point is but one of a 
succession of points, being prominent because of its peculiar 
formation rather than because of its size. 

Maui is made up of two distinct mountain masses joined by 
a low, flat isthmus. Haleakala occupies the whole of the eastern 
section, comprising the larger part of the island, while the West 
Maui Mountains fill the smaller or western section of the island. 

On the north and south sides of the isthmus are the bays of 
Kahului and Maalaea, respectively. On the north side the coral 
has built out from the mainland on both sides, forming the 
Kahului Harbor. Through the opening in the reef there is a 
deep channel which the largest vessels can enter. 

Along the northeast coasts of both Mauis there are cliffs, but 
they are not of great height. 

Off the Lahaina side of West Maui there are extensive coral 
reefs and a sand beach extending many miles along the shore. 
Much coral is also found about East Maui, where the conditions 
are favorable for its growth, but, as this part of the island is 
much newer than the other, the reefs are of course not so 
extensive. 

West Maui Mountains. — The West Maui part of this island 
is much older than Haleakala, being possibly as old as the island 

87 



I5€> 40 



156 30 



Lonqitude 



21 



2040 




156 40 



156 30 



88 



West from 



156 10 



Greenwich 



156 o 



'■KeowQtkf 




Ka Lae o Kallio 



i pahulu 



■21 



■2050 



lona Bay 



• Alau 



20 40 



56 10 



I 56 O 



8 9 



90 MAUI 

of Kauai, the Waianae range of Oahu, or the Kohala Mountains 
of Hawaii. At one time West Maui was probably such a moun- 
tain as Mauna Kea, on Hawaii — its crater being filled and com- 
pletely obliterated, as is the case with Mauna Kea. 

As these mountains are stretched directly across the track of 
the trade winds, they have been subject to a very heavy rainfall, 
and have been tremendously cut up, furnishing as fine an ex- 
ample of erosion as can be found anywhere. So great has the 
cutting been that it is difficult for us to imagine that the great 
gulches we find here, such as Iao, Waihee, Olowalu, and Hbno- 
kahau, are purely the result of erosion. However, we have ex- 
amples on a smaller scale with just such results as we find here ; 
so undoubtedly the great amphitheaters at the head of these 
valleys are areas of erosion, and not old craters, as we might 
suppose them to be at first sight. 

The highest peak of West Maui is Puu Kukui, 5788 feet high. 

The scenery in the Iao Valley, which is the most accessible of 
the West Maui gulches, has been described as being almost 
equal to that of Yosemite, but that of Waihee and Olowalu is 
fully as fine. The view from the top of Puu Kukui, looking 
almost perpendicularly down into the wonderful gorges of Iao 
and Waihee and out over East Maui and the top of Haleakala 
to the snow-capped mountains of Hawaii, is said to be one of the 
finest in the world. 

Owing to the narrowness of the ridges and the dense vege- 
tation which covers them, these mountains can be scaled in only 
a few places. There was once a way from Lahaina to Wailuku 
over the dividing ridge between the Olowalu and Iao valleys, 
known as the Olowalu Pass, but this road is now impassable, 
owing to landslips. 

On a narrow ridge between the Waihee and Honokahau val- 
leys is the crater of Eke, the uniqueness in the position of which 
is due entirely to erosion. This crater, which is a small one, is 
very inaccessible, having been only once visited by a white man. 

Near the summit of Puu Kukui there is an extensive bog or 
marsh, which is the source of all the streams on the Lahaina 



MOUNTAINS 



95 



Keanae Valley on one side. The Kaupo gap descends abruptly 
to the sea, while that on the Koolau side has a gradual incline 
for most of the distance. There is a trail through the Kaupo 
gap which is used by cattlemen. 

Next to the gaps the most striking feature of Haleakala is its 
sand cones. There are thirteen cones in the crater, seven of 
which are sand cones, one of them being over 700 feet high. 
These cones, which are placed over vents in the lava of the 




"Bottomless Pit," Haleakala Crater. 

crater, contain craters from which was erupted the sand of which 
they are formed and which so thickly covers the bottom. 

Growing in the sand of the cones, or from crevices in the floor 
of the crater, are numbers of silver-swords (Argyroxiphium). 
These curious and interesting plants are not found anywhere 
else in the world. 

Other interesting features of the crater are : the Bottomless 
Pit (a blow-hole) ; Pele's Pigpen (a small, partly filled crater) ; 
Hunter's Cave; Crystal Cave and the Chimneys; and the 



9 6 



MAUI 




Silver-sword in Bloom, Haleakala Crater. 











Sand Cone in Haleakala Crater. 



THE ISTHMUS 97 

Natural Bridge, — the four last-named are craters along a rent 
which marked one of the eruptions within the crater. 

Judging from the lava flows found in its bottom, the crater of 
Haleakala may have been active two or three hundred years 
ago. 

A well-marked trail leads from Makawao to the summit of 
the crater, where a stone house affords shelter and water, but 
travelers must carry their own provisions and blankets. The 
trail into the crater, with the exception of three miles along the 
brink, is a good one. 

The side of Haleakala exposed to the wind is cut up into a 
countless number of gulches. These gulches are large near the 
seacoast, but do not extend far up on the mountain side. The 
Keanae Valley is the extension of the Koolau gap. The Kipa- 
hulu Valley, which is separated from the crater by a narrow 
precipitous ridge, was caused by that portion of the land be- 
tween the Kaupo gap and the valley splitting away from the 
main body and not sliding as far, when the fault occurred which 
formed the crater. 

On the wedge-shaped piece on the northeastern side of the 
crater is Lake Waianapanapa, directly above the head of the 
Kipahulu Valley. 

The southeastern slope of Haleakala is barren, a portion of 
it being covered with lava flows ; some of these flows are quite 
recent — being perhaps one hundred and fifty years old. 

The northwestern slope of the mountain, being protected from 
the wind, presents an almost unbroken stretch to the isthmus. 

The Isthmus. — The isthmus which joins East and West Maui 
is eight miles wide at its narrowest point. At one time this 
isthmus must have been a water way, — when the Mauis were 
separate islands. This channel was filled by flows from Halea- 
kala, and was probably higher at one time than it is now. The 
isthmus is now composed of wash from the high land on both 
sides, and sand blown from the Kahului beach. 

The sand dunes of the isthmus near Wailuku were no doubt 
caused by an upheaval of this part of Maui, as they are two 

GEOG. H. I. — 5 



98 MAUI 

hundred feet high and contain fragments of coral and sea shells ; 
but the sand hills on the lower part of the isthmus are the 
product of the wind. 

Formerly numbers of these dunes could be seen slowly mov- 
ing across the isthmus, finally being lost in the sea on the oppo- 
site side ; but most of the isthmus land has now been reclaimed 
by irrigating ditches, and the rest is rapidly being covered with 
algaroba trees — hence but a few of these traveling dunes are 
to be seen to-day. 

Districts. — The districts of Maui are Lahaina, Wailuku, 
Makawao, and Hana. 

Lahaina. — The Lahaina district includes all of the northern, 
the western, and a part of the southern slope of the West Maui 
Mountains. ^The island of Lanai is also included in this dis- 
trict. 

This district, being mostly sheltered from the wind, is a dry 
one, receiving rain only during the Kona season. Though the 
main part of the district is practically a rainless one, yet it is 
well supplied with water from many never-failing streams whose 
source is the Puu Kukui watershed. 

There are two plantations in this district — the Pioneer Mill 
Company, at Lahaina, and the Olowalu Company. 

The Pioneer Mill Company is one of the oldest sugar planta- 
tions of the group. By means of artesian wells, tunneling in 
the mountains, and a long ditch from the Honokahau Valley, 
water has been developed, so that this is now one of the largest 
and most prosperous plantations of the Territory. The cane 
land of this plantation comprises that on the Lahaina flat, the 
slopes back of the town, and the lower part of the Honokawai 
lands. The sugar is carried out by railroad to Black Rock 
(Kaanapali Landing), where it is shipped. The largest vessels 
can come close in shore here. 

The Olowalu Company is a small plantation situated on the 
flat near the mouth of the Olowalu gulch. 

At Honolua is a cattle ranch which embraces the larger part 
of the lands on the northern part of West Maui. 



LAHAINA 



99 




Deserted Missionary Home, Lahaina. 



The only place of importance in this district is the village of 
Lahaina. At one time the town occupied the whole flat, but 
now most of this flat is planted with sugar cane, the main part 
of the town being strung out along the shore. There is a pro- 
tecting coral reef here, with a break through which boats may 
enter and find safe anchorage. 

Lahaina was the ancient capital of the group, and was then a 
large and flourishing town. The prosperity of the place was 
largely due to the whaling fleet which made this a port of. call 
for water and supplies during its cruise in the north Pacific. It 
took from one to three years to secure a full cargo of oil, and 
then the ship sailed for New Bedford by way of Cape Horn. 
At one time there were as many as 89 whaling ships anchored 
off the town. 

The port of Lahaina is an open roadstead, but is entirely 
sheltered except from the Kona winds ; and as these winds blow 



100 



MAUI 



only for short periods during the winter months, the harbor is 
usually a safe one. 

Two and a half miles above Lahaina on the hillside is the 
Lahainaluna Seminary. This school was established in the 
year 1831, and was long the leading institution for the education 

of Hawaiian youth. In 
the year 1905 the school 
was furnished with new 
buildings, and is now one 
of the leading industrial 
schools in the Territory. 

Wailuku. — The Wai- 
luku district includes also 
the island of Kahoolawe 
and the detached land of 
Honuaula on the south- 
ern part of the island. 

That part of the dis- 
trict adjoining the West 
Maui Mountains is abun- 
dantly provided with water 
from the Iao and Waihee streams, and is occupied by the plan- 
tation of the Wailuku Sugar Company. 

The lands of the isthmus are supplied with water from a ditch 
from the Waihee stream and from two long lines of ditches run- 
ning far along the northeast slopes of Haleakala. By means 
of the water conveyed in these ditches, what was once a dust- 
swept and sandy plain has been converted into the finest and 
largest sugar estate on the Hawaiian Islands — that of the 
Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company. The mill for this 
estate is situated at Puunene, and is the largest sugar mill on 
earth. The cane is carried by railroad to the mill from every 
part of the plantation. Besides the ditch, there are a number 
of wells from which water is pumped during dry times. 

The principal places of the district are : Wailuku, Waihee, 
Kahului, and Puunene. 




Old Ruin, Lahaina. 



WAILUKU 



IOI 




Puunene Mill. 




Wailuku Town and Iao Valley. 



102 MAUI 

Wailuku is a town of 3000 inhabitants, and is the county 
seat for the county of Maui. It is a pretty village situated at 
the mouth of the Iao Valley. It was in the Iao gulch near the 
village that Kamehameha defeated Kalanikupule, the king of 
Oahu and Maui, in the famous battle of Wailuku — when it is 
said the stream ran red with blood. It was by this victory 
that Kamehameha made himself master of Maui. 

Kahului is the port of the district, though passengers and 
mail are frequently landed at McGregor Landing on Maalaea 
Bay as well. The harbor has been enlarged by dredging, and 
protected by a breakwater built on the eastern side, and can 
now accommodate the largest ocean-going vessels. Kahului is 
connected with all the neighboring places by railroad, and is 
a busy port during the sugar season. 

Makena is the port for the Honuaula part of the district. 

Makawao. — The Makawao district, which includes Kula, 
covers the larger part of the northwestern slope of Haleakala. 
As it is mostly on the sheltered side of the mountain, the district 
is not cut up by many gulches ; it presents an almost unbroken 
incline to the isthmus. 

As there are no running streams of water in the main part of 
the district, two ditches have been constructed for the purpose 
of bringing water from the windward slopes of Haleakala. The 
first of these ditches (Hamakua ditch) was completed in the 
year 1877, and was the first ditch of its kind on the islands. 
The other (Koolau ditch) was completed in 1905 ; it extends as 
far as Nahiku, and brings the water out at a much higher 
elevation than the other. Seven and a half miles of this latter 
ditch is through tunnels, and three great gulches are crossed — 
Honomanu, Halehaku, and Maliko. 

The water from these ditches is used for irrigating the cane 
of the Maui Agricultural Company, enabling this estate to ex- 
tend its bounds into the fertile lands on Haleakala. 

The Hamakuapoko and Paia plantations have been consoli- 
dated into the Maui Agricultural Company, with a central mill 
located at Paia. 



MAKAW AO — H ANA 1 03 

The upper part of Kula is entirely sheltered from the trade 
winds, has a climate different from that of any other part of 
the group, and is particularly suitable for persons suffering with 
tuberculosis. The black soil found here is a vegetable loam ; at 
one time this region was covered by a heavy forest growth, 
which was cleared away by settlers, or destroyed by cattle. The 
soil of Kula is very rich, and good crops of corn and potatoes 
are raised here. 

At Haiku there is the cannery of the Haiku Fruit and Pack- 
ing Company, which harvests from the adjoining lands a large 
crop of pineapples. 

The upper slopes of Haleakala are used for grazing purposes. 

Makawao has a larger number of white people and more 
social life than any other of the outer districts. This is due not 
only to the fact that a large proportion of the whites are of the 
more intelligent class, but also to the fact that the different 
villages are placed about a common center, instead of being 
strung along the coast as is usual with most of our island 
communities. 

There are a great many Portuguese in this district — many of 
whom have settled in Kula and Kaupakulua as farmers. 

In the upper part of Paia is the Maunaolu Girls' Seminary. 
A well-equipped foreign church is centrally located below the 
seminary, where it is easily reached from all parts of the district. 

The principal places of the district are Paia, Hamakuapoko, 
Makawao, and Kihei. 

Hana. — The Hana district is made up of the lands of Kahi- 
kinui, Kaupo, Kipahulu, Hana, and Koolau, occupying the 
eastern end of the island. 

Kahikinui and Kaupo, being on the southern or sheltered 
slope of the mountain, are largely waste land ; they are used 
chiefly for grazing purposes. 

In contrast to that part of the district on Haleakala's south- 
ern slope, the eastern and northern section has a heavy rainfal^ 
possessing a climate somewhat similar to portions of Hilo on 
Hawaii. 



104 MAUI 

There is a good driving road from Kipahulu to Nahiku, but 
beyond this there is only a trail. This trail extends along the 
greater part of the northern slope of Haleakala, which is very 
much cut up by gulches. Formerly this trail was near the sea- 
shore, but now it has been built higher up on the slope of the 
mountain, where the gulches are small ; and so the deep valleys, 
with their fords which are dangerous in the rainy season, are 
avoided. The scenery along this trail is very fine. 

There are two small plantations in this district : those of 
the Kipahulu Sugar Company, and the Kaeleku Plantation, at 
Hana. 

Rubber is grown successfully at Nahiku in this district, and 
this is an important industry. Nahiku is a region similar in 
soil and climate to Olaa on Hawaii. 

Hana district has a scattering and sparse population. 

The principal place of the district is Hana town, which is pic- 
turesquely situated on the bay just back of Kauiki Head. The 
only good landing in the district is at Hana ; large ships can 
find a safe anchorage in the bay here. 

Keanae is a village at the mouth of the Keanae Valley. It is 
built partly on the peninsula formed by the lava which flowed 
into the sea through the Koolau gap. 

Kaupo is a small place just below the gap from which it 
takes its name. 

During ancient times Hana Bay was a convenient landing for 
canoes coming from Hawaii. In times of war Kauiki hill was 
used as a fort. A paved road was built around East Maui in 
the sixteenth century ; on the hillsides the flat cobblestones of 
which it was made were placed on edge. Portions of this 
ancient road are still in use. 






MOLOKAI 



Physical Features. — Molokai is a long, narrow island lying 
east and west directly between Oahu and Maui. 

The island, which is about forty miles long by ten miles wide, 
can be included in a rectangle whose length is four times its width. 




Cliffs seen from Leper Settlement, Molokai. 

The north coast is bold and rugged, showing on the northeast 
end extraordinary cliffs like those found on the windward side 
of Hawaii and on the northwest coast of Kauai. 

An extensive barrier reef extends along the entire southern 
shore, which is low. At Kaunakakai, Kamalo, and Pukoo this 
reef has made excellent harbors. 

105 



< 

o 
o 



o 




1 06 



INDUSTRIES 107 

Molokai is a double cone. The smaller cone, which lies 
towards the west, is dry and barren, and of no commercial 
value. 

The highest point of the larger, or eastern, section of the 
island is Kamakou, 4958 feet above sea level. This peak is at 
the south end of the narrow ridge dividing the Pelekunu and 
Wailau valleys. The most prominent peak in this section is 
Olokui, which is on a wedge almost directly north of Kamakou, 
with which it is connected by the narrow precipitous ridge 
above referred to. 

The formation, which is unusual here, must have been the re- 
sult of a great fault, when the north side of the mountain broke 
away and slipped into the sea, forming the cliffs along the coast. 
Since the fault the region has been cut up by erosion, forming 
the inaccessible gulches, of which the Wailau and Pelekunu are 
the largest. All together this is one of the most remarkable 
sections of the group. 

Industries. — Owing to the lack of water in its desirable sec- 
tions, Molokai is of no great commercial value. 

The larger part of the island is devoted to cattle raising. 
Taro is grown in Pelekunu and Wailau for the leper settlement. 
Sisal is also grown in places. 

Formerly there were a great many fish ponds within the 
barrier reef along the southern shore of the island, but many of 
these ponds are not used now, as there is no market for the fish, 
and the inclosing walls have been allowed to fall to pieces. 
Some fish are sent to Lahaina and Honolulu. 

Two of the finest wharves of the group are found at Kauna- 
kakai and Kamalo. That at the former place extends half a 
mile out to sea. These wharves were built when the Kauna- 
kakai and Kamalo plantations were being exploited. 

With the exception of the leper settlement at Kalaupapa, the 
places of Molokai are of no importance; Wailau and Pelekunu 
are accessible only from the sea. 

Kalaupapa. — At the base of the cliffs near the middle of the 
north side of Molokai there is a shelf which juts out into the sea, 



io8 



MOLOKAI 



being an outflow of lava from the Makanaloa crater. The bowl 
of this crater is at sea level, and is filled with sea water which 
has a mean depth of 300 feet, falling away to 750 feet in one 
spot. 

Located on this shelf is the leper settlement of Kalaupapa, 
cut off on the land side by cliffs 1 500 feet high and on the other 




Leper Settlement at Kalaupapa. 

side by the sea. The side of this shelf opposite Kalaupapa is 
known as Kalawao. 

In 1906 there were 831 residents at the settlement, most of 
whom were lepers. While the lepers are allowed land which 
they can cultivate, they derive their chief support from the 
government, which does everything possible to alleviate their un- 
fortunate condition. Separate homes are maintained for the 
boys and girls of lepers, and also a hospital where all are cared 
for who cannot assist themselves. 






LAN Ai — KAHOOLAWE 1 09 

A leprosarium has been established at the Kalaupapa settle- 
ment by the Federal Government for the study of the disease of 
leprosy. 

LANAI 

Lanai is on the lee side of West Maui, its nearest point being 
nine miles distant. The island contains 139 square miles. 

Lanai is a single cone 3400 feet high. On the west or lee 
side of the island there are cliffs three or four hundred feet high 
in places. This side of the island consists of a gently sloping 
plateau, or a succession of terraces. 

Being on the sheltered side of Maui, Lanai does not show 
much erosion, though there are a number of small gulches. 
There are some springs on the island and one running stream. 

There are small forest trees on the summit, and the plateau 
on the lee side is fine grazing land, but otherwise the island is 
barren. 

Lanai is devoted to cattle and sheep raising. It is entirely 
free from noxious weeds. 

There are two small government schools on the island. 



KAHOOLAWE 

Kahoolawe is the smallest of the inhabited islands of the 
group, containing 69 square miles. 

The island consists of a single cone, 1472 feet high. It is 
almost entirely surrounded by cliffs, which are 200 feet high in 
places. 

Being on the protected side of Maui, the island presents an 
even, unbroken surface. There are no streams or even springs 
on the island. 

Kahoolawe supports but a few head of cattle and sheep, and 
is of hardly any commercial value. 

There are only a few herders living on the island. 



KAUAI 

Physical Features. — Kauai is at the extreme northwest end 
of the main group, and is the smallest of the four larger islands. 




no 



PHYSICAL FEATURES 



III 




Its area is 547 square miles, which is 51 square miles less than 
that of Oahu. 

Kauai is nearly circular, and, with the exception of the Mana 
flat, which is composed of an uplifted coral reef, could be in- 
cluded in a circle whose radius is a line from the Nawiliwili 
lighthouse to a point in the head of the Wainiha Valley west of 
Waialeale. 

The coast line of Kauai is very regular, containing no promi- 
nent capes, or bays of any extent. The so-called Haena Point 
is one of two spurs of the Wainiha ridge, forming a headland 



112 KAUAI 

which is separated from the sea by the coastal plain which f orrns 
Haena flat. Hanalei Bay, which is as large as Kealakekua on 
Hawaii, is a typical Hawaiian inlet, with its protecting coral 
reef and passageway. Nawiliwili Bay, which is the chief port 
of Kauai, has sea room for only small-sized vessels. 

The shore is low, except on the northwest, where there are 
high cliffs extending along the coast for fifteen miles. 

Owing to the depth of water near the shore, there are no coral 
reefs of any extent. It may be that there were such reefs off 
the coast of Kauai at one time, but the space between the reef 
and the shore has been filled with wash from the slopes above, 
thus adding to the coastal plain. 

Waialeale. — Kauai is made up of the mountain mass of 
Waialeale, 5250 feet high. From the summit the ridges radiate 
in all directions, though on the eastern side they are very short. 

The eastern and northern sides have been tremendously 
eroded, and on the east there is left scarcely a vestige of the 
original slope which is indicated by only a few short ridges. 
The opposite side is furrowed by a number of deep gorges, but 
the original contour is still preserved in the wide spaces be- 
tween them, which comprise the upper cane fields of the plan- 
tations on this side of the island. 

These ridges are low near the sea, and are gradually lost in 
the coastal plain, but become narrow and precipitous as the 
gulch extends inland, finally forming a veritable canyon. 

The Hoary Head ridge on the southeast is a part of the 
original backbone of the mountain which was intersected by 
the gap north of Koloa, through which the government road to 
Lihue passes. The highest point of this ridge is Hoary Head 
(Haupu), 2030 feet high. 

The Waimea gulch which extends across the western slope 
of Waialeale, intersecting all the ridges on this side of the 
island, is not wholly the result of erosion, but originated in a 
fissure. 

Originally Waialeale must have been much higher than it is 
now ; the soil has been washed from the summit and slopes to 



MOUNTAINS 113 

form the coastal plain which encircles Kauai, with the excep- 
tion of the northwest side. 

From the amount of erosion that has gone on, we infer that 
Kauai is the oldest island of the group. 

The section of the mountain between the Wainiha and Waimea 
valleys has a gentle slope towards the latter gulch, and is of a 
boggy nature. Were it not for the deep Koaieaie gorge which 
intersects it, this region would consist of almost a continuous 
swamp. Sections of this bog are covered with a thin turf, and 
are impassable. In ancient times, it is said, the northern section 
of the morass was crossed by a path made of logs, but the 
passage was a hazardous one, for the logs were submerged in 
places, and it was difficult to find this path in the dense fog 
which usually covers the mountain. 

This swamp is the reservoir which feeds all the streams that 
go to make up the Waimea, Makaweli, and Hanapepe rivers, 
making a splendid watershed for the lee side of the island, 
which is thus abundantly supplied with water, even though it 
may not rain for months at a time. 

Owing to the difficult nature of the trip to the summit, which 
can be reached only by skirting the bog, Waialeale has seldom 
been ascended. For many years the true height of this moun- 
tain was not known. 

Napali. — The northwest side of Kauai, known as Napali, is 
similar to the windward or North Kohala section of Hawaii, and 
the northeast or Wailau and Pelekunu section of Molokai, show- 
ing remarkable cliffs of the same kind rising almost perpen- 
dicularly from the sea to a height of more than a thousand feet 
in some places. However, it is to be noticed in this case that 
the cliffs are on the northwest, where they are partly protected 
from the wind, instead of being on the windward side of the 
island as in the cases of Hawaii and Molokai. 

The gulches in this Napali section are short, ending at the 
ridge back of Waimea Valley. They show the effects of much 
erosion in many needle-like shafts and in wide amphitheaters at 
their heads. In that part of this section farthest south these 

GEOG. H. I. — 6 



ii4 



KAUAI 



gulches enter the sea through narrow, canyon-like walls, cutting 
off all view of the interior. 

The Kalalau Valley is the largest of the gulches in this region. 
In ancient times there were a large number of natives living 
here, but only a few huts remain at present. It was among the 
inaccessible ridges in the head of this gulch that the leper 
Koolau intrenched himself, eluding all efforts of the authorities 
to capture him. 

Some of the finest scenery in the Hawaiian Islands is to 
be found in this Napali region, but owing to its inaccessibility 

the place is seldom 
visited. There is a 
trail along the cliffs 
as far as Kalalau, but 
beyond this the jour- 
ney to Mana must be 
made by a canoe trip 
of seven' miles. 

Valleys. — Kauai is 
noted for its gulches, 
which are among the 
finest in the world. 
They are longer than 
the gulches on the 
other islands, and are 
very deep in their 
upper portions, being 
confined between can- 
yon-like walls. These 
gulches all contain 
large streams of water, 
which, as they spread 
out on the low, flat lands of the coastal plain, are called rivers. 

So inaccessible is the interior of Kauai that its real nature was 
not known till it was penetrated by the plantation tunnels and 
ditches in search of water. So the Olokele tunnel disclosed the 




The Olokele Canyon, Kauai. 



MOUNTAINS 115 

wonderful canyon from which the ditch takes its name, and the 
Kauai Electric Company's ditch opened up the magnificent 
scenery in the great Wainiha gorge. 

The Wainiha Valley is undoubtedly one of the finest of our 
Hawaiian gulches. This gulch has cut its way between perpen- 
dicular walls, several thousand feet high in its upper part, into 
the very heart of Waialeale, almost intersecting the, ridge upon 
which the peak stands. 

The Hanalei Valley contains the largest stream of any of our 
Hawaiian gulches. It is navigable for boats and small steam 
launches for three miles. The river is used for transporting 
the rice grown in the gulch. 

Between the Hanalei and Wainiha valleys is the Lumahai. 
The Lumahai River is now spanned by a bridge, and so has dis- 
appeared the last of the Kauai ferries, which were a character- 
istic feature of travel in this region at one time. 

Wailua and Hanapepe are chiefly noted for their beautiful 
waterfalls. Boats can sail up the former for a distance of a mile 
and a half. The two branches of the Wailua unite near the sea, 
where the sea has cut its way through a ridge, forming a deep 
gorge. 

The Waimea Valley plays an important part in the drainage 
of the west side of the island, intersecting the slope of the 
mountain on this side and turning all the streams through its 
own channel toward the south, thus depriving the extreme west- 
ern section of Kauai of any running streams of water. 
" The Makaweli gulch has worn away the intervening ridge 
near the sea, and is now a branch of the Waimea; the Olokele 
in turn is a branch of the Makaweli. 

Secondary or Tufa Cones. — There are a number of secondary 
cones on Kauai that have played an important part in the gen- 
eral topography of the island. These cones, like those on Oahu, 
were formed after the island had attained its present state of 
erosion. Some of the craters in these cones are used as reser- 
voirs by the plantations. 

The largest of these cones is the Kilohana crater west of 



Il6 KAUAI 

Lihue, which is uoo feet high. The material ejected from 
this crater covers all the region from the Hoary Head ridge to 
the Wailua River, burying beneath its debris the valleys and 
ridges that existed here at one time. The streams have been 
forced to cut new channels through this debris, flowing around 
the cone into the Wailua River on one side and the Huleia on 
the other. 

In a similar manner the valleys and ridges of the mountain 
spur on the northeast have been covered up by material ejected 
from craters in that region. The bowl in one of these craters is 
used as a reservoir by the Kilauea Plantation. 

At Koloa a dam has been constructed across the gap in an 
old cone, and the lake thus confined furnishes a fine water supply 
for the plantation. 

The cones near the Koloa landing mark the site of a compara- 
tively recent pahoehoe outbreak, which was the last eruption 
on Kauai. 

Haena Caves. — In the cliff at Haena there are a number of 
caves. Two of them are at sea level and are filled with water, 
that in one of them being entirely sweet. These caves are en- 
larged chambers of old lava tunnels, and evidently extend into 
the cliff for some distance. Owing to the water with which 
they are filled, it is impossible to explore them. A canoe has 
been placed in one of the caves for visitors. 

Barking Sands. — The barking sands consist of a range of 
wind-blown sand hills half a mile in length, extending from 
Nohili towards Polihale. When thoroughly dry, this sand be- 
comes resonant whenever its grains are set in motion. 

While these sands are called " barking sands," they emit a 
great variety of sounds, according to the method of friction ; at 
times the sound resembles subterranean thunder ; again it will 
be a sighing or a faint groaning as of some one in pain ; as the 
wind forms little cascades, there is a rustling sound as from a 
lady's silk skirts. The act of sliding down the sand hills pro- 
duces a sound having cadence periods ; they were probably 
named for this. 



INDUSTRIES 117 

This phenomenon is a rare one, being common to only a few- 
places in the world. It is said that there is a hill of barking 
sand at Makua on Oahu. In climate this latter place is similar to 
Mana, which is one of the hottest and driest spots of the group. 

Vegetation. — Kauai has been called the " Garden Island," 
though it is exceedingly bare of trees except on the higher 
mountain slopes. However, in former times the whole eastern 




Kauai, the "Garden Island" (Wainiha Valley). 

side of the island was covered with a heavy forest, growth, 
which must have presented a very tropical appearance, but 
has since been destroyed by cattle or replaced by cane fields. 
Again, owing to the nature of its watershed, the whole island is 
well watered — this, coupled with a rich soil, no doubt gave it its 
sobriquet "Garden Island." 

Industries. — An almost continuous belt of sugar cane girds 
the island of Kauai from Mana to Kalihiwai on the north. 

All the lowlands of the coastal plain and valley bottoms are 
planted with rice. The area on the north planted with rice ex- 
ceeds that of any other part of the group. Rice mills are 
located at Waimea and Hanalei. 

Pineapples are cultivated in sections, and there is a cannery 
at Lawai. 

On the uplands of Kauai there are a number of cattle ranches. 
At Hanalei buffalo grass has been sown in the fields, greatly 
improving the pasture. 

The splendid water sources of Kauai have not only been util- 
ized to bring under cultivation nearly all of the arable land on 



Il8 KAUAI 

this island, but have been the incentive for a further step in the 
development of the sugar industry of the group, through the 
evolution of the tunnel-ditch and the application of electricity 
on a large scale to the running of plantation machinery. 

The Kekaha Plantation x completed a new ditch in 1907, bring- 
ing the Waimea Valley water into its fields. Previous to this 
only the land on the low coastal plain was cultivated, but now 
a portion of the upland is planted as well. Pumps are still 
used for irrigation in some of the low lands. 

A great deal of made land has been added to this estate by 
the construction of dams, which caused the sediment carried in 
flood water to drop as its velocity was checked. 

Makaweli, which is one of the most prosperous plantations of 
the group, occupies what was once a dry kula, capable of sup- 
porting but a few head of horses and cattle. Water was first 
secured from the Hanapepe Valley, and later from the Olokele 
canyon, which is the main branch of the Makaweli stream. 
These two ditches give the plantation an abundant supply of 
water even in the driest weather. The building of the Olokele 
ditch was a great engineering feat, the upper portion being a 
continuous tunnel for six miles within the cliff of the wonderful 
Olokele canyon. 

The McBryde Sugar Company secures its water supply from 
pumps in the Hanapepe Valley, which are operated by electricity. 
This electricity is developed by water power in the Wainiha 
gulch on the opposite side of the island, and conveyed around 
the mountain to the pumps by a system of wires and poles 
thirty-five miles long. The cane land of this plantation extends 
from Hanapepe into Koloa. 

Koloa and Lihue are two of the oldest plantations on the 
Hawaiian Islands. The Lihue Plantation includes Hanamaulu. 
There is a separate mill at the latter place. Both Lihue and 
Koloa secure water from mountain streams and a system of 
storage reservoirs. 

At Kealia there are a number of flowing artesian wells. 

1 See Appendix A for list of plantations, 



DISTRICTS — PEOPLE 



119 



Kilauea is well watered, but the soil here is poor. 
All of the plantations of Kauai have their own landings ; 
Makaweli and McBryde ship their sugar direct in deep-water 
vessels, importing all their supplies in the same way, but the 
other plantations use Honolulu as the distributing center. A 
breakwater has been built at Eleele, the landing for the McBryde 
Sugar Company, making it the best harbor on the lee side of the 
island. The Lihue sugar is shipped at Ahukini in Hanamaulu 
Bay, where the vessels can approach close to the wharf. 

Districts. — The districts of Kauai are Waimea, Koloa, Lihue, 
Kawaihau, and Hanalei (including also Napali). 

Waimea is the largest of these, occupying the whole western 
part of the island, which includes the entire dry section of 
Kauai. This district includes also the island of Niihau. 

Hanalei occupies the largest part of the northern section of 
the island ; this is an extremely wet district, having as great a 
rainfall as Hilo on Hawaii. 

People. — A larger proportion of Japanese are found on Kauai 
than on the other islands, some of the schools being composed 
almost entirely of Japanese children. There are a great many 
Chinese also, who are engaged in the rice industry. At Lihue 
there is a German settlement, where a German church and school 
are maintained. 

In general, the population centers of Kauai are large, five and 
six-room schools being found in most of the villages. 

Places. — Lihue is the county seat of Kauai County. The 
village is scattered along both banks of the Nawiliwili gulch. 
Nawiliwili is the port for Lihue. The wireless station is located 
near the landing. 

Waimea village is at the mouth of the Waimea River. At one 
time there was a large native population here, when it was the 
capital of Kauai. -Captain Cook first landed on the Hawaiian 
Islands at the mouth of the Waimea River. On the bluff east 
of the river mouth are the ruins of a Russian fort built in the 
year 18 15, ostensibly for Kaumualii, the king of Kauai, but with 
the secret purpose of annexing the island to Russia. 



120 



KAUAI 





fr.~* j^ 












j^* '~>*lfcS|g 


B^^Eftrnr^s^ 


-o 


.;„!> 


■pkv , "^B 




'■" v ' ' ■" "' 


r Nap - ■■' . : 


8^ 






w 


p „i/^ ; ' j 


•^hBkBsB^VHbB 




i .^f'^ 




U3 










'/■ 




""■■.. ■•'■•■'■ ...■:■■ ■ 




*£**S* 


EAST'S* 




g^SMK J**?; """.-jig . -^ 


K^s? 8 "*! 




.>.•'&*-•><. ^**^ 




' 



Waimea Village. 

Koloa is a pretty village near the extreme southeast end of the 
island. The landing for Koloa is an open roadstead two miles 
from the village; this was the chief port for Kauai at one time. 

Hanapepe, Eleele, and Kapaa are important villages. At each 
of the plantation mills there are also good-sized settlements. 

Hanalei is one of the most picturesque parts of the group. 
The view looking down into the gulch from the east bank, with 
the broad river winding through rice fields in the foreground, 
and the bay and cloud-capped peaks and ridges in the distance, 
is one of unsurpassed beauty. 




Hanalei Valley, Kauai. 



NIIHAU 121 

There is a small settlement at Wainiha near the- mouth of the 
river ; the Kauai Electric Company's power house is located two 
miles above in the gulch. 

NIIHAU 

Niihau is 17 miles west of Kauai, from which it is separated 
by a deep channel. The island contains 97 square miles, and 
its highest point is 1300 feet above sea level. 

This island consists of a high middle section, with a low plain 
at each end. On the north there are precipitous cliffs where 
the highland joins the flat. Water is pumped from shallow 
wells. 

The island, which is a private estate, is devoted to sheep 
raising. 

A small white shell is found on the beaches, which is strung 
into necklaces. 

The famous Niihau mats are made from a reed that grows in 
the marshes. This reed has a red base ; otherwise it is similar 
to the rushes found on other parts of the group. The mats are 
made chiefly at Mana on Kauai. 

With one or two exceptions, the people of Niihau are 
Hawaiians. 

The government maintains a school and road here. 



APPENDIX A 



CAPES 


0^ 

BAYS AND 


LHU 

TOWNS AND 


PLANTATIONS 


Kahuku Point 


HARBORS 


VILLAGES 


Honolulu Planta- 


Mokapu Point 


Honolulu Harbor 


Honolulu 


tion Co. 


Makapuu Point 


Pearl Lochs 


Aiea 


Oahu Sugar Co. 


Diamond Head 


Kaneohe Bay 


Pearl City 


Ewa Plantation Co. 


Barber's Point 


Waialua Bay 


Waipahu 


Waianae Co. 


Kaena Point 


Kahana Bay 


Ewa Mill 


Waialua Agricul- 


MOUNTAINS 


Waianae 


tural Co. 




HEIGHT 


Waialua 


Kahuku Plantation 


Kaala Waianae Range . 4030 feet 


Wahiawa 


Waimanalo Sugar 


Palikea Waianae Range 


31 1 1 feet 


Kahuku 


Co. 


Konahuanui 


. 


3105 feet 


Laie 




Lanihuli 


. , 


2775 feet 


Hauula 




Tantalus (Puu Ohia) 


. 


2013 feet 


Waikane 




Olympus (Awawaloa). 


2447 feet 


Heeia 




Round Top (Ualakaa) 


1049 feet 


Kaneohe 




Punchbowl (Puowaena) 


498 feet 


Waimanalo 




Diamond Head (Leahi) 


761 feet 








HAWAII 




CAPES 


BAYS 


PLACES 


PLANTATIONS 


Upolu Point 


Hilo Bay 


(Kohala) 


(Kohala) 


Kumukahi Point 


Kealakekua Bay 


Puako 


Puako Plantation 


South Point (Ka 


Kawaihae Bay 


Kawaihae 


Hawi Mill 


Lae) 


Kailua Bay 


Mahukona 


Union Mill Co. 






Hawi 


Kohala Sugar Co. 


MOUNTAINS 

HEIGHT 


Kapaau 


Halawa Plantation 


Mauna Kea 


. 13,825 feet 


Makapala 


Niulii Mill Co. 


Mauna Loa 


. 13,675 feet 


Waimea 


(Hamakua) 


Hualalai 


8,269 feet 


(Hamakua) 


Pacific Sugar Mill 


Kohala Mountains . 


5,489 feet 


Waipio 


Honokaa Sugar Co. 


Crater of Kilauea 




4,000 feet 


Kukuihaele {Continued on next page.} 



123 



124 



APPENDIX A 





HAWAII - 


— Continued 




PASSENGER 


PLANTATION 


PLACES 


PLANTATIONS 


AND MAIL 


LANDINGS 


Honokaa 


Pauhau Sugar Plan- 


LANDINGS 


Honoipu 


Paauhau 


tation Co. 


Kawaihae 


Kukuihaele 


Paauilo 


Hamakua Mill Co. 


Mahukona 


Honokaa 


Kukaiau 


Kukaiau Mill Co. 


Laupahoehoe 


Paauhau 


(Hilo) 


Kukaiau Plantation 


Hilo 


Koholalele 


Ookala 


Co. 


Honuapo 


Ookala 


Laupahoehoe 


(Hilo and Puna) 


Hoopuloa 


Papaaloa 


Papaaloa 


Ookala Sugar Plan- 


Hookena 


Honohina 


Hakalau 


tation Co. 


Napoopoo 


Hakalau 


Honomu 


Laupahoehoe Sugar 


Keauhou 


Honomu 


Onomea 


Co. 


Kailua 


Pepeekeo 


Papaikou 


Hakalau Plantation 




Papaikou 


Hilo Town 


Co. 




Wainaku 


(Puna) 


Honomu Sugar Co. 




Punaluu 


Keaau (Nine Miles) 


Pepeekeo Sugar Co. 




Puako 


Mountain View 


Onomea Sugar Co. 






Pahoa 


Hilo Sugar Co. 






Kapoho 


Hawaii Mill Co. 






Kalapana 


Waiakea Mill Co. 
Olaa Sugar Co. 






(Kau) 








Pahala 


(Kau and Kona) 






Hilea 


Hawaiian Agricul- 






Honuapo 


tural Co. 






Naalehu 


Hutchinson Sugar 






Waiohinu 


Plantation 






(Kona) 


Kona Sugar Co. 






Papa 








Hookena 








Honaunau 








Napoopoo 








Kainaliu 








Keauhou 








Holualoa 








Kailua 






MAUI 




CAPES 


BAYS 


PLACES 


PLANTATIONS 


Kahakuloa Point 


Kahului 


Lahaina 


Pioneer Mill Co. 


Kauiki Head 


Maalaea 


Olowalu 


(Lahaina) 




Hana Bay 


Waikapu 


Olowalu Co. 



APPENDIX A 



125 





MAUI- 


- Continued 






MOUNTAINS 


PLACES 


PLANTATIONS 




HEIGHT 






Haleakala 


. 10,032 feet 


Wailuku 


Wailuku Sugar Co. 


Puu Kukui 


. 5,788 feet 


Waihee 


Hawaiian Commer- 


Eke 


4,500 feet 


Kahului 


cial and Sugar Co. 






Puunene 


Maui Agricultural 




LANDINGS 


Spreckelsville 


Co. (Paia) 


Kahului 


McGregor (Maa- 


Paia 


Kipahulu Sugar 


Keanae 


laea Bay) 


Haiku 


Co. 


Nahiku 


Olowalu 


Hamakuapoko 


Kaeleku Plantation 


Hana 


Lahaina 


Makawao 


(Hana) 


Kipahulu 


Kaanapali (Kekaa) 


Pauwela 




Kaupo 


Honolua 


Huelo 




Makena 


- 


Keanae 

Hana 

Kipahulu 

Kaupo 

Ulupalakua 

Kihei 





KAUAI 



CAPES 




BAYS 


PLACES 


PLANTATIONS 


Haena Point 




Hanalei Bay 


Lihue 


Kilauea Sugar Plan- 






Hanamaulu Bay 


Kapaia 


tation Co. 






Nawiliwili Bay 


Hanamaulu 


Makee Sugar Co. 


■ 


MOUNTAINS 

HEIGHT 


Kapaa 
Kealia 


(Kealia) 
Lihue Plantation 


Waialeale 




. 5250 feet 


Anahola 


Co. 


Hoary Head 


(Haupu) . 2030 feet 


Kilauea 


Grove Farm Plan- 


Kilohana Crater 


. 1 100 feet 


Kalihiwai 


tation (Planters 








Hanalei 


only) 




LANDINGS 


Wainiha 
Haena 


Koloa Sugar Co. 
McBryde Sugar Co. 


Nawiliwili 




Wainiha 


Koloa 


Hawaiian Sugar Co. 


Ahukini 




1 Koloa 


Lawai 


(Makaweli) 


Kapaa 




Eleele 


Eleele 


Gay and Robinson 


- Anahola 




v Hanapepe 


Hanapepe 


(Planters only) 


y Kilauea 




v Makaweli 


Makaweli 


Waimea Sugar Mill 


v Hanalei 




Waimea 


Waimea 
Kekaha 


Co. 
Kekaha Sugar Co. 



126 



APPENDIX B — APPENDIX C 



MOLOKAI 

MOUNTAINS 

HEIGHT 

Kamakou . . 495 8 feet 
Olokui . . 4600 feet 



OTHER ISLANDS 



LANDINGS 

Kaunakakai 

Kamalo 

Pukoo 



Lanai 
Kahoolawe 
Molokini . 
Niihau 



HEIGHT 

3400 feet 

1472 feet 

160 feet 

1300 feet 



APPENDIX B 



DISTANCES 



Honolulu to 

Kalaupapa 

Lahaina 

Kahului 

Plana 

Maalaea 

Makena 

Mahukona 

Kawaihae . 

Kailua on Hawaii 

South Point (Ka Lae) 

Honuapo . 

Hilo (direct) 

Hilo (via Kawaihae) 

Nawiliwili 

Koloa 

Waimea 

Hanalei 



MILES 

52 

72 

90 

128 

86 

96 

134 

144 

157 
233 
244 
192 
230 

98 
102 
1 20 

!25 



APPENDIX C 

Oahu Channel (Kaiwi) 

Molokai Channel (Pailolo) ...... 

Maui Channel (Auau) ...... 

Hawaii Channel (Alenuihaha) . 

Kauai Channel (Kaieie Waho) 



MILES 
WIDE 

23 

8 

7 
26 

63 



APPENDIX D — APPENDIX E 



127 



APPENDIX D 





Area in 
Square Miles 


Length in 
Miles 


Width in Miles 


Population 

1900 


Hawaii . 


40I5 


90 


74 


46,843 


Maui . 


728 


46 


30 


24,796 


Oahu . 


598 


46 


2 5 


5 8 >5°4 


Kauai . 


547 


25 


22 


20,562 


Molokai 


261 


40 


9 


2,504 


Lanai . 


139 


21 


8 


619 


Niihau . 


97 






172 


Kahoolawe . 


69 








Total . 


6454 






1 54,000 



APPENDIX E 



REFERENCES TO HAWAIIAN GEOGRAPHY 



Advertiser, Daily, Jubilee Number, July 2, 1906. 

Agricultural Resources and Capabilities of Hawaii, Wm. C. Stubbs, Ph.D. 

Annexation of Hawaii, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1898. 

Arbor Day, Origin of, Hawaii's Young People, April, 1901. 

Birds, Hawaiian, Henshaw, Hawaiiati Annual, 1902. 

Cold Current System of the Pacific, Dr. Bishop, Hawaiian Annual, 1905, page 74. 

Commercial Pacific Cable, Hawaiian Annual, 1904. 

Cooke, Captain, Hawaii 's Young People, May, 1900. 

Feather Cloaks of Kamehameha, Hawaii's Young People, May, 1900. 

Feather Work, Hawaiian, Haivaii s Young People, November-December, 1900. 

Fire, Hawaiian Traditions of Origin of, Hawaii s Young People, October, 1900. 

Flora of Hawaiian Islands, Hillebrand. 

Geology of Oahu, Dr. Bishop, Hawaiian Annual, 1901, page 49. 

Geology of Oahu, Dr. Hitchcock. 

Government of T. H., Synopsis of, Hawaii s Young People, October, 1907. 

Haleakala, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii s Young People, April, 1898 (1899 on outside 
cover). 

Haleakala, Through, on Foot, Sam R. Dowdle, Hawaii s Young People, September- 
October, 1901. 



128 APPENDIX F 

Hawaii, Geography of, C.W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1901 (be 

gins). 
Hawaii, Mountains of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, October, 1901. 
Hazvaiian Annual, bound volumes. 
Hawaiian Islands, How Formed, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, February, 

1898 (1899 on outside cover). 
Kapa Beating, Hawaii's Young People, March, 1899 (1898 on inside). 
Kapa Making, Hawaii's Young People, October, 1900. 

Kilauea, Crater of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, November, 1900. 
Land Shells of the Hawaiian Islands, D. D. Baldwin, Haivaii's Young People, May, 

1900. 
Lava Flow of 1899, C. W. Baldwin, Haivaii's Young People, March-May, 1900. 
Lava Flows of Hawaii, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, January, 1902. 
Lavas and Soils of the Hawaiian Islands, Walter Maxwell. 
Maui, Geography of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, February-November, 

1899. 
Maui, Geography Stories of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, November, 1899. 
Maui, Mountains of, D. D. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, May-June, 1901. 
Maui and Alae Birds, Harriet F. Coan, Hawaii 's Young People, October, 1897. 
Maui and Sun, Hawaii's Young People, June, 1897. 
Maui Snaring Sun, Hawaii's Young People, January, 1901. 
Planter's Monthly, bound volumes. 
Poi Making, Hawaii's Yotmg People, September, 1900. 
Sandal Wood Trade, Hawaiian Annual, 1905. 

States and Territories, Difference between, Hawaii's Yomig People, November, 1898. 
Sugar : Its Status and Development, L. A. Thurston, Jubilee Number Advertiser, 

page 31. 
Trees, Historical Hawaiian, Hawaii's Young People, April, 1901. 
Umi, Story of, Dr. Alexander, Hawaii's Young People, April, 1897. 
Vancouver, Captain George, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1900. 
Waipio and Waimanu, Hawaiian Annual, 1901, page 143. 



APPENDIX F 

PRONUNCIATION OF HAWAIIAN WORDS 

A is sounded as in father, e as in th<?y, i as in marzne, as in n<?te, u as in xu\e or 
as 00 in moon. 

Ai when sounded as a diphthong resembles the English ay in the word aye (yes), 
or the English i in bz'te ; and au resembles the English ou in \oud. 

The accent of most of the words in the Hawaiian language is on the penult 
(the syllable next to the last) . A few of the proper names are accented on the final 
syllable, as Hanapepe, Kamalo, Waikiki, etc. W is sometimes sounded as v. 



<.*U0 



,!:'?, RARY 0F CONGRESS 






Nil MA U 



028 157 641 



OAMU 





inn' t tnun mim nr **•—»- ■»■?**■- 




BfqapmMtlttlitnmtfM^uwavMMMiNi 





